As a means to explore, biking is slow enough to expose riders to things they’d miss by car but covers enough ground to keep the adventure from stalling.
The birthplace of the rails-to-trails movement, the Midwest offers numerous diverting trails. Built on abandoned railways largely using crushed stone, these routes tend to be flat, attracting both recreationalists — riding gravel, mountain or hybrid rather than road bikes — and those fit enough to do 100-mile “century” spins.
The nonprofit Rails To Trails Conservancy counts more than 2,400 rail trails in the United States. TrailLink, its search engine, lists scores of them in and around Chicago alone ranging from the mile-long Northwestern University lakefill in Evanston to the 61-mile Illinois Prairie Path spanning Cook, DuPage and Kane counties.
For cyclists seeking breakaways to rural areas and small towns linked by scenic cycling routes, here are five destinations where cyclists can take their bikes for a weekend of memorable rides in the Midwest.
2 HOURS’ DRIVE FROM CHICAGO
Kal-Haven Trail, Michigan
Linking coastal South Haven to inland Kalamazoo in western Michigan, this 34-mile route creates a tunnel of trees. Thirtysomething panels en route explore history of the former rail route and its whistlestop towns but nature is the draw (attention fall foliage fans).
“One of the benefits with woods on both sides for 80% of the trail is that it blocks the wind,” says Terry Hutchins, a Kalamazoo-based cyclist who formerly served as the director of the Kal-Haven Trail Run.
“May is my favorite month on the trail,” he adds, noting that wild trillium lines the trail just over a mile from its eastern end.
How to do it: Most users choose between trail anchors, which are about 38 miles apart by car. The eastern trailhead links up with a seven-mile paved connecting trail to downtown Kalamazoo. Near the trail, the Kal-Haven campground offers cabins, glamping tents and lodging in a converted school bus (500 CR 687, South Haven).
Beyond the trail: South Haven offers Lake Michigan beaches and famed sunsets. On the other end, the Kalamazoo Institute of Arts (314 S. Park St.) will hold its 75th art fair June 5-6. Kazoo’s thirst-quenching Bell’s Eccentric Café (355 E. Kalamazoo Ave.) from Bell’s Brewery includes a restaurant, beer garden and live music venue.
2 HOURS 20 MINUTES’ DRIVE FROM CHICAGO
Pumpkinvine Nature Trail, Indiana
Between Goshen and Shipshewana, the 17-mile Pumpkinvine Nature Trail slices through the heart of northern Indiana’s Amish country.
“Especially between Middlebury and Shipshewana, it’s quite idyllic because the Amish use it for transportation,” says Mitch Barloga, the president of the nonprofit Greenways Foundation, which advocates for trail development in Indiana. That seven-mile section, he adds, “is a time warp.”
How to do it: On the eastern end, Shipshewana, famed for its Amish-flavored tourism industry and weekly antiques auction, is a popular place to start out for Middlebury and double back for a 14-mile round trip. But Middlebury is generally less congested, offering riders a convenient midpoint to tackle the trail in both directions. Das Dutchman Essenhaus (240 U.S. 20, Middlebury) offers bike rentals as well as rooms and hearty dinners.
Beyond the trail: In addition to its Wednesday auction, the Shipshewana Trading Place (345 S. Van Buren St.) holds a flea market Tuesdays and Wednesdays (May through Sept.). The 90-mile Heritage Trail audio driving tour visits area attractions including 17 quilt gardens (May 30-Sept. 15). From Goshen, the Pumpkinvine connects to the Mapleheart Trail, adding another 11.6 miles en route to Elkhart.
4 HOURS’ DRIVE FROM CHICAGO
Elroy-Sparta State Trail, Wisconsin
With the Illinois Prairie Path in Wheaton, the 32.5-mile Elroy-Sparta State Trail shares honors as the first rail-to-trail openings in the country. The rural route links five towns and transits three rock tunnels (open May through Oct.) in the central Driftless region.
“It’s the crown jewel of the Wisconsin state trail system,” says Kirsten Finn, the executive director of the Wisconsin Bike Fed, a cycling education and advocacy organization, describing the longest tunnel at nearly a mile as pitch black. “Even in the hottest months, it’s 20 degrees cooler.”
How to do it: Get a trail pass ($5 a day) at trail headquarters in Sparta (111 Milwaukee St.). The longest tunnel, Tunnel 3, lies within about seven miles of the trailhead. Cyclists can schedule a drop off anywhere along the trail and ride back to Sparta with Dave’s Shuttle Service (call 608-487-3271; rates vary with a shuttle for two from Sparta to Elroy costing $80). The 200-acre former farm Justin Trails Resort (7452 Kathryn Ave.) offers trail access from its cabins, cottages and suites.
Beyond the trail: Sparta, the self-proclaimed “Bicycling Capital of America,” hosts a museum devoted to cycling as well as local astronaut Deke Slayton (200 W. Main St.). The 22-mile LaCrosse River State Trail connects Sparta to LaCrosse on the Mississippi River.
FIVE HOURS’ DRIVE FROM CHICAGO
Tunnel Hill State Trail, Illinois
Slicing through southern Illinois’ Shawnee National Forest from Harrisburg to Karnak, Tunnel Hill State Trail extends 45 miles through a 543-foot-long tunnel and over 23 restored train trestles — including the 90-foot-tall Breeden Trestle — providing thrilling views over the forest canopy.
“It goes through the prettiest part of southern Illinois with big bluffs and creeks and beautiful wooded areas for 90% of the trail,” says Shawn Gossman, the founder of Friends of Tunnel Hill State Trail and the guide service Hiking with Shawn.
How to do it: Most Tunnel Hill highlights lie on the southern end. A base in the small trailside town of Vienna and its 14-room Perkins House Inn (504 W. Vine St.) allows riders to head north to hit Breeden Trestle and the tunnel in a roughly 20-mile round trip. Riders heading south eight miles will go through the Cache River State Natural Area (Belknap) home to cypress-tupelo swamp and 1,000-year-old trees.
Beyond the trail: Paddlers can canoe on the Lower Cache River with rentals or tours from Cache Bayou Outfitters (240 Dean Lane, Ullin). Hiking in the popular Garden of the Gods Recreation Area (Karbers Ridge Road, Herod) offers stunning panoramas over sandstone bluffs.
FIVE HOURS’ DRIVE FROM CHICAGO
Root River State Trail, Minnesota
Unlike many arrow-straight rail trails, the wiggly Root River State Trail follows every curve of the meandering Root River in southern Minnesota for 42 miles from Houston west to Fountain, linking a series of small towns — none with more than 2,000 residents — that have largely been revived by cycling traffic.
In addition to river access, the trail offers scenic views of limestone cliffs, particularly along the western half of the trail from Peterson to Lanesboro.
How to do it: Each Root River town has its own charm but Lanesboro, near mile marker 11 counting west to east, offers a concentration of accommodations, shops and restaurants as well as rides in either direction. Peddling east, cyclists will hit Whalan in five miles and can indulge at the seasonal Aroma Pie Shoppe (618 Main St.). Another eight miles on, Peterson salutes its Scandinavian heritage with gnomes stationed around town. West to Fountain, cyclists will enjoy bluff views and the only steep section of the trail, with grades up to 8%. Lanesboro is also loaded with historic inns including the Stone Mill Hotel & Suites (100 Beacon St. East).
Beyond the trail: In Houston on the eastern end of the trail, stop at the International Owl Center (126 E. Cedar St.) to see resident great horned, eastern screech and barn owls. Several kayak and tube companies such as Root River Outfitters in Lanesboro (101 Parkway Ave. South) offer rentals. A southern biking spur, the hilly Harmony-Preston Valley State Trail extends 22 miles, nearly to the Iowa border.