For me, there is nothing as satisfying as a perfectly executed burrata, accompanied by basil, beets and pistachios, dressed simply with a glug of good olive oil and sprinkled with salt. Che Fico Parco Menlo rose to the occasion last week at brunch after I had ordered a chopped salad that was precariously packed with peppery salami, peppery cheese, pepperoncini and chickpeas, seasoned with a black peppery vinaigrette. After three bites, accompanied by a three-alarm fire called in by my mouth, which had decided to spare my stomach the aftermath, the accommodating server offered to replace it with something I could actually eat. This is a sign of hospitality, and it is much appreciated. The burrata was perfect.
So, too, was the grilled heirloom tomato sandwich I had at Purple Onion, as the late season tomatoes were still rolling in. Big juicy golden beefsteak met melted mozzarella cheese on sourdough in a sendoff to summer that still has me drooling. This place, with outposts on Winchester Boulevard in Campbell and Main Street in downtown Los Gatos, is highly popular for its absolutely fresh and always homemade food. There is nothing commercial about the flavors, and that’s a big win. It’s always gratifying to see Los Gatos High School students in here eating real food.
There are some great new places to check out if you’re heading south to Carmel. In Seaside, the Lantern Room in the newly refurbished Monterey Beach Hotel is now helmed by Chef Paul Corsentino, and after a pleasant night’s sleep, we enjoyed some of the best breakfast food we’ve had of late. The fluffy Forager’s Omelette, accompanied by perfectly fried breakfast potatoes, was stuffed with spinach, Big Sur chanterelles, Monterey Jack cheese and Baker’s Bacon. Chef Tony Baker applewood-smokes only the back portion of the pig, not the belly, so it’s meaty, hearty and sweet.
Further south, Lance and Roslyn Anderson just opened Vin Bar By the Sea at Su Vicino Court in Carmel, where you can escape to France without the threat of flight delays. Here, too, Corsentino holds court, and the varied and exciting menu matches the thrill of discovery afforded by the vast and fun wine list. I went for the Paul Bara Reserve Grand Cru Brut, which was delightful.
For those wishing to indulge in a taste of France closer to home, on Friday, Nov. 14, Michelin-starred Chef Peter Armellino of the Plumed Horse in Saratoga will join forces with Chef Jarad Gallagher for a one-night-only dinner celebrating the legendary Jacques Pépin as part of the Jacques Pépin Foundation’s “90 for 90 Dinners” series.
Champagne and seasonal canapés kick off the meal, a five-course wine paired dinner honoring Pépin’s legacy, merging French culinary traditions with California’s seasonal bounty. Set in the intimate Rose Room at The Plumed Horse, the event is limited to just 24 guests, with 15% of proceeds benefiting the Jacques Pépin Foundation in support of culinary education and workforce training. Tickets are $425 at https://bit.ly/3Xb54Vf.
Carnico Tools & Provisions in Los Gatos is proud to be one of the first purveyors in California to offer a select supply of boneless ribeyes from Pat LaFrieda that set a new benchmark for American beef. Prime 850 Club by Pat LaFrieda offers USDA grade beef scoring 850 and above, which is the top tier in the prime category, a distinction less than 5% of all U.S. beef can achieve. Sourced from 100% Black Angus cattle raised humanely on small American family farms, each cut delivers exceptional marbling, tenderness and flavor. LaFrieda then expertly dry-ages the beef for 30 and 60 days. https://www.carnicotoolsandprovisions.com
For those wondering how San Jose pumpkin carving artist Paulina Goff Stovall fared in season 15 of Food Network’s “Halloween Wars,” her team emerged as the show’s champions.