Enrique Socarras has led the kitchens in restaurants as varied as Sushi Den in Denver and Centro Mexican Cuisine in Boulder, but he’s probably best known for Cuba Cuba, which he and his sister opened in 2001 after moving from Miami, where they were raised.
It was there — in two converted 130-year houses in Denver’s Golden Triangle neighborhood — that he taught adventurous diners about dishes like ropa vieja, beef that is slow-cooked and shredded; Cuban-style black beans and rice; and fried plantains, known as tostones.
Socarras left Cuba Cuba nearly a decade ago, but on Aug. 1, he will open Jama Miami Cuban Food + Drink in Freedom Street Social, an Arvada food hall at 15177 Candelas Pkwy., returning to his Cuban heritage and the cooking that he learned from his parents and grandparents.
While Socarras gained acclaim over the past 25 years, he said his goal for the new venture isn’t to garner praise or stars. “We are not trying to Michelin it out here. We’re just trying to cook good food for the soul.”
That includes dishes like empanadas, Cubano sandwiches, sweet plantains, and croquetas de jamon (traditional croquettes made with ham, bechamel and lime). But Socarras will also add some of his creativity to the menus, especially when it comes to sandwiches. For instance, one version of his Cubano will feature crispy pork belly that he said “eats way better” than traditional pork butt, he said.
Other sandwiches he is toying with are the Croqueta Preparada, a Cubano with some of the ham croquettes inside; a Pan Con Bistec, which is seared Palomilla steak with griddled onion, tomato, shoestring potato and salsa Criolla on a Cuban Roll; and Frita Cubana, a “Miami-style smashburger with Spanish chorizo, a beef patty, salsa Criolla, onions and potatoes.
Socarras has been “beta testing” all of his ideas from a ghost kitchen at 1468 S. Cherokee St., where half his customers are using delivery apps like Uber Eats and DoorDash, and the other half are locals from nearby neighborhoods who pick up to-go orders from the ChefReady facility.
When Jama opens in Freedom Street Social (which will also have a bar), he’ll put the ghost kitchen on hiatus, but plans to bring it back to help with takeout and delivery.
The word “jama” is slang for food, Socarras said, and it helps to highlight the importance of his background and his cooking. In addition to sandwiches and other permanent menu items, he plans to have different specials each day. “This thing is going to evolve, and we want to try to tailor it the best we can to our audience while keeping it as a creative outlet at the same time.”
As for the food itself, Socarras said Cuban food is family-friendly and approachable. “Cultural food can be intimidating, depending on your comfort zone. This is about trying something new.”