As the season of feasting descends upon us, we must warn you of a terror far greater than dry turkey, lumpy mashed potatoes, or the chilling sound of your cousin saying the words, “Have you done your own research?”
This particular nightmare creeps up softly, packaged in a glass bottle.
As you take your place at the holiday table, you brace for the usual horrors: casseroles congealing in real time, gravy boats bubbling like cauldrons, relatives sharpening both carving knives and political opinions. And then, with a thud that echoes through your bones, it appears: Yellow Tail.
A bottle of flabby chardonnay plunked down like the villain in a straight-to-DVD slasher film. Your pulse quickens. Flashbacks flood in — college headaches, oaky regrets, the metallic taste of shame on your tongue.
You reach for your glass with trembling hands, as you realize that life is too short, turkey is too dry and the world is far too unhinged to suffer through supermarket wine. There is only one way out: Bring your own bottle. A bottle strong enough to survive the spiral ham, the tinfoil leftovers and your uncle descending into his third rant of the night about lizard people.
To protect yourself this season, we asked Boulder and Denver’s finest wine professionals what they’re actually bringing home this year — from bracingly fresh Champagnes to elegant Italian whites alive with citrus and herbs, to structured, food-friendly reds under $75.
Armed with these bottles, you’ll make it through everything from Christmas with your in-laws to New Year’s with your boss’s boss’s boss.
The first to weigh in is James Keiser, beverage manager at Corsica Wine Bar, 2801 Walnut St., Suite 100, in Denver. When it comes to the holidays, Keiser isn’t worried about impressing a whole table of strangers. He’s thinking about what his mom would drink. (Aw.) She’s a die-hard fan of big, buttery California chardonnay, but Keiser, who’s made a career out of getting people to try wines outside of their comfort zones, sees the holidays as his chance to sneak something new into her glass.
“I’d probably bring her a bottle of 2016 Domaine Ventoura, a Chardonnay from Burgundy, mostly because she’s never really ventured outside the Sonoma Coast or Russian River Valley for her chards,” he said.
Even if she takes one sip and decides it’s too light, that’s fine by him.
“She still gets to experience something new, and we get to talk about it together,” he said. “That’s a win in my book.”
Wine has always been a marker of the season in his family. Growing up, the official start of the holidays wasn’t marked by turkey or pumpkin pie, it was signified by a post-dinner screening of “A Christmas Story.” His dad would pull out something special, often Merry Edwards Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley, sometimes a Darioush Cabernet.
According to Keiser, the bottle mattered as much as the movie.
“Wine was definitely part of the ritual, and even now that tradition of having a ‘special bottle’ kind of marks the moment,” Keiser said.
Now, Keiser gravitates toward bottles that feel generous and welcoming without climbing into three-digit territory. His go-to is Buganza’s Uva e Mani Nebbiolo.
“When in doubt, Nebbiolo,” he said. “It somehow bridges the gap between big, bold Cab drinkers and lighter Pinot Noir fans. I don’t meet many people who don’t like it.”
He also keeps a Langhe Nebbiolo from Tintero on his list at Corsica: $45, crowd-pleasing, and pretty much guaranteed to disappear long before dessert is served.
When it comes to shopping for wine, if it’s a small haul, Keiser will head to Mr. B’s Wine & Spirits near the ballpark.
“Their manager really knows their stuff, and you’ll always find something unique, like a fun Pét-Nat or some under-the-radar producer you’ve never heard of.”
If the guest list is longer than 20 people, Molly’s Spirits or Total Wine is the place to go.
“If you’re buying by the case, they give you that sweet discount, which really adds up fast,” he said.
Over at Barcelona Wine Bar, 2900 Larimer St., Denver, beverage director Michael Harney is thinking about impressing his entire extended family when it comes to holiday wine.
Harney grew up as a self-proclaimed “beer guy,” which might explain why his guilty pleasure holiday drink is still a good IPA or a sour. But somewhere between working as a clerk at Highlands Wine and Liquor and taking over the wine program at Barcelona, he became the de facto “wine guy” at home.
Every Thanksgiving morning, he flies home to Phoenix, and the first stop is always Total Wine.
“Sometimes even preordering what I want on the Thanksgiving table,” he said.
Once he lands at his aunt’s house in Paradise Valley, the job is officially his.
“I’ve become the designated ‘wine picker,’” he said. “It’s my chance each year to show off the bottles I love: complex, nuanced wines that get everyone talking.”
The bottle he associates most with the season is Vega Clara Mario, a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, made by a female winemaker in Spain.
“I fell in love with it a few years ago and it clocks in at about $75,” Harney said. “It has these warm coffee and vanilla notes that just feel like the holidays to me. It somehow manages to be powerful and soft at the same time.”
For a less expensive option, he points to López de Heredia’s Viña Cubillo Crianza from Rioja.
“It sneaks in under $40 when you’re buying retail and it’s an absolute classic,” he said. “Great with a little charcuterie to kick off the meal. And you’re getting a wine with around a decade of aging on it, which is kind of wild at that price point.”
Harney still shops Highlands, where he got his start, and calls Cask and Craft another favorite.
“Their old world wine selection is incredible,” he said. “If you stop in regularly, they do 10% off every two weeks, which is a nice bonus and adds up. They sometimes carry SP68 Occhipinti — which is rare, really delicious and also made by a woman winemaker.”
Over at Sienna Wine Bar, 3434 E 12th Ave., Denver, owner Mary Kent takes a different approach to holiday drinking: A champagne-heavy season focused on serving plenty of bubbly.
A sociologist at heart and a longtime student of wine by osmosis, Kent opened Sienna Wine Bar & Small Plates at 12th and Madison after years of imagining exactly that kind of neighborhood hangout. The idea first took root during her grad school years in Congress Park, where she noticed the corner that needed a place, and decided she’d eventually be the one to fill it.
When the holidays roll around, Kent leans hard into effervescence.
“For many years, I threw a 100-plus person party every December,” Kent said. “I made individual stockings for all the children, the whole bit. We always had plenty of champagne for everyone, always the good stuff.”
Lately, she’s been obsessed with Laurent-Perrier’s Cuvée Rosé Brut, a pinot noir-driven Champagne with “soft and bright” energy and a long tradition of female winemakers.
“That makes it fun… to be supporting women in wine, but, really, it’s just outrageously delicious!”
If she’s bringing something to a holiday dinner, Kent usually grabs the La Capranera Falanghina from Sienna’s list.
“It’s totally affordable and magical with holiday food, crisp with light citrus and tropical notes, hints of blossoms and minerals,” she said. “It seriously has never met a turkey it didn’t love.”
Another one of her favorites is the Klimt “Kiss” Organic Grüner Veltliner from Austria, which comes with a citrusy profile and a B Corp certification, which, according to Kent is “an incredible distinction that basically means it’s a force for good on the planet.”
For something showstopping but still affordable, she suggests the Gianni Gagliardo Fallegro Favorita, a lightly sparkling Vermentino with citrus, melon and a whiff of cinnamon.
“This will definitely blow everyone’s mind as a welcome glass — or early in the meal,” she said.
Up in Boulder, Carlin Karr has a holiday rhythm of her own. Karr, wine and beverage director at Frasca Hospitality Group, was just 23 years old when she helped open Sons & Daughters, a Michelin-starred restaurant in San Francisco. There, she met Boulder restaurateur Bobby Stuckey and eventually joined Frasca Hospitality Group in Boulder, where she now oversees wine and beverage programs for all the group’s restaurants.
Karr said she’s worked most holidays (something many hospitality workers can relate to), but always gets Thanksgiving off. That means Friendsgivings, quiet Thanksgivings with her husband and plenty of wine — that’s not so much about pairing with food and more about matching the mood.
“Turkey is lean, but there are lots of rich sides,” she said. “I like versatile wines that can play with everything: great Pinot Noir from Burgundy or delicious Cru Beaujolais. One producer I love is Jean Foillard in Morgon. His Beaujolais is crunchy, refreshing and granitic, which feels so appropriate for fall.”
For something that reflects her everyday taste, and Frasca’s roots in the Friuli region of northern Italy, she recommends Friulano.
“It has extract and power but still feels refreshing,” she said.
One bottle she’s loving this year is Due del Monte, a Friulano with “weight and texture, with refreshing acidity.”
When the calendar flips to December, her attention turns to Nebbiolo – and especially Barolo.
“It’s the ultimate winter wine,” she said. “Barolo has this Alpine, almost Christmas-spice character, with a refreshing structure that pairs so well with rich pasta dishes.”
She’s partial to Vajra’s Albe, Fratelli Alessandria’s Comune di Verduno, and Brovia from Castiglione Falletto.
For an affordable red, Karr points straight to Chianti Classico.
“You can get amazing bottles for $40-$45 that just really punches above its weight and tastes like it should be $75, $80,” she said, naming Tregole and Istine as standout Chianti Classico producers.
When it comes to bubbly, Karr is a Champagne purist, especially Blanc de Blancs from the Côte des Blancs region.
“Some I love are Pierre Peters Cuvée de Réserve, Agrapart 7 Crus and Dhondt-Grellet Extra Brut,” she said. “They’re refreshing, cleansing and such a treat during the holidays.”
Karr said she gets her wine through Frasca, but likes to support independent retailers like Denver Wine Merchant, Mondo Vino and Proof in Denver. In Boulder, it’s Wine Merchant or Hazel’s in Boulder. (“Hazel’s feels big, but it’s independently owned, their staff has been with them since they opened, and they treat their team well,” she said.)
And when the cork’s staying in the bottle, Karr says she reaches for something a bit unorthodox.
“I love spirits, like tequila,” she said. “For the holidays, Chartreuse. I even keep my own Chartreuse collection at home, reserved for special moments.”
No one needs to drink cinnamon sangria this year, and no one needs to smile politely through a third glass of suspiciously warm Prosecco. There are better bottles out there — and now you know where to find them.