You could wait till high season to hit Maui for the big waves, but then you’d have to deal with all the kooks, groms and barneys from the mainland. So why not hit the island now, when surf’s up and the newbs are in their cubicles? Here’s where to ride and where to stay for the biggest breakers and largest living on Valley Isle.
Ho’okipa State Beach
Ideal for wind surfers and beginners (kooks, groms and barneys), this beach hosts professional windsurfing competitions, and is a regular hangout for pros who just want to ride. Sudden afternoon gales, strong rip currents and a shallow reef keep players on their toes as they gather at “Pavilions,” furthest east toward Ho’okipa Lookout, or paddle over to “Lanes,” a left-breaker on a tiny beach. And if those don’t float your boat, try “Middles,” west of Pavilions, or “H’poko” at the west end of the beach.
Pe’ahi ‘Jaws’
Strictly for the big dogs, “Jaws,” on the island’s North Shore, is Maui’s most epic break. So huge that the yearly Big Wave Awards have listed it the winner more than any other surf spot. The access road is 1.5 miles of dirt, and if it’s raining, you’ll need four-wheel drive. Top names in surfing flock here, so you’ll need to be pretty confident in your skill level and accustomed to waves so big that few can reach them without a jet-ski tow. Those who learn about “Jaws” the hard way will call her by her traditional Hawaiian name, “Ke Kai ‘o Waitakulu,” which translates to “The Teary Eye.”
Punalau Beach
With winter surf sometimes topping 10-20 feet, that which locals call “The Mill” is only for the highly skilled. Situated to the west, near Kaanapali, Punalau Beach is a strip of white sand that is lousy for swimming, with a reef as sharp as teeth, but heaven for hardcore shredders. Four-wheel drive only, a two-minute walk from the road, no snorkels, no boogie boards—Punalau is strictly for the foam-loving and fearless.
Pohaku Park
If you’re staying in a condo in Kahana, this calm beach for beginners is just a short walk away. A fave for surfers and paddle boarders in winter, when swells are less savage, it’s the ideal spot for greenhorns, though it’s a long paddle to the breakers. Between sets, kick back with locals who frequent the spot for fishing and a beer on weekends.
Honolua Bay
Consistent swells and crystalline waters combine for some of the best waves in Hawaii, nay, the world, at Honolua Bay. For seasoned surfers unafraid of monsters, it’s a perfect righthander that lines up in a series of barrel and turn sections for nearly a quarter-mile. Begin at “Coconuts,” the outermost takeoff zone where waves and winds are supersized. “Outside” is where the wave gathers steam and stands up into a hollow wall. “Cave” is the most popular section of the wave, presenting a once-in-a-lifetime barrel. Emerging in “Keiki Bowl,” you’ll race over breaks on the shallow, sharp reef.
On the island’s north side, Wailea Beach Resort is centrally situated for easy access to all surf spots, keeping drive time to a minimum and ride time to a max. Stay in the resort’s new Oceanfront Villas that can expand to up to four bedrooms, bringing the outdoors inside. Lounge on the oversized lanai in an upholstered punee (traditional Hawaiian daybed), and let the trade winds dry the sweat on your brow.
There’s the hotel pool where you can lose yourself in pina coladas and an infinite horizon, but for a bespoke experience head for Olakino, an adults-only dip that includes culinary nibbles and potent potables served to live music and a shoulder massage while lounging on an in-water chaise, double daybed or your own luxury cabana.
Dining opportunities are legion in the shopping mall on the other side of the parking lot by the resort’s entrance. Bring a date to Wolfgang’s Steakhouse, or bring the bros to Waikiki Brewing Company, but the prime place to tuck in is the resort’s Humble Market Kitchin by celebrity Chef Roy Yamaguchi. Order the Misoyaki Butterfish or his Mongolian Baby Back Ribs. The meat resistant can savor the Charred Brussel Sprouts and Cauliflower, and wash it down with the Hmk Lilikoi Mai Tai or a Chocolate Martini made with Absolut Vanilla, Trader Vic’s chocolate and Bailey’s.
And if surfing’s not your thing, spend a day lazing on the beach with a paperback, or walking in the shallows, absorbing ocean breezes and endless horizons. Surf’s up, or down, it doesn’t matter since it’s Hawaii, where doing nothing is time well spent.