Here’s how to cook quinoa without making it bland and limp

Quinoa, pronounced KEEN-wah, is often hailed as the protein-rich grain of the future. Most sources lump it in with grains although it is technically classified as a pseudo-cereal grain, along with amaranth and buckwheat. That said, happily it can be delicious.

Many recipes cook it in way too much liquid, waterlogging it into a bland, somewhat limp concoction. I like to toast it in a dry saucepan before cooking it, pilaf-style, a process that creates an appealing nutty taste and a delicate crunch.

Toasted Quinoa with Feta and Herbs

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 cups white quinoa; see cook’s notes

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 large brown onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 3/4 cups water

3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as basil, parsley, mint or chives (I like a combination of at least two)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese

Cook’s notes: I haven’t encountered unwashed quinoa in many years. Older recipes say to rinse and drain quinoa before cooking to remove bitterness. But as it has grown in popularity, packaged store-bought quinoa has been pre-rinsed.

DIRECTIONS

1. Add quinoa to a large saucepan and place on medium-high heat. Toast quinoa, stirring frequently, until nicely brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Note that not all will be browned, some will remain white, but don’t worry about it. Empty it into a bowl. Allow the pan to cool for a couple of minutes.

2. Return pan to medium heat and melt butter. Add onion and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and starts to brown. Add water and quinoa; increase to high heat. Bring to simmer. Cover and reduce heat to low; gently simmer until tender and liquid is absorbed, about 18 minutes. Set aside off heat, still covered, for 8 minutes. Add herbs, juice, salt and pepper. Toss and cover for 2 more minutes off heat. Add feta and toss. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.