On a recent weekend in early April, a music festival went down under the bright coastal sun that represents everything that’s magnetic, transcendent, and life-affirming about music. And while some 2,000 miles away in the similarly broiling California desert hundreds of thousands of festival attendees sweated for six hours in gridlock to pose in front of a Ferris wheel, New Orleans celebrated something else entirely: itself. Founded in 1984 by Mayor Ernest “Dutch” Morial, the idea for the French Quarter Fest (FQF) was simply to attract locals back to the historic ward, which at the time suffered from neglect, petty crime and lack of tourism. Piggybacking on extensive renovations accomplished for that year’s World’s Fair, the last ever held in the United States, the beloved mayor spearheaded a six-stage effort that stretched along the Mississippi River from the Audubon Aquarium to the famed Jackson Square.
But this year was a special one. Not only because FQF celebrated its 41st year of existence, but because the city continues to undergo a revitalization critical since Hurricane Katrina ravaged Louisiana in 2005, drowning the city in water and despair. And just as New Orleans began to finally recover from the $125 billion in damage, a global pandemic set the tourism-reliant destination back yet again. But the Big Easy rises once more from the muddy banks of the mighty Mississippi, revitalized largely on the shoulders of its culinary scene. Thank super creative fusion spots like Thai Nola and their gumbo ramen, Japanese magicians Ajun Cajun offering po-boys overflowing with soft-shell crab and yakiniku, and Pho Bang NOLA’s crispy pandan chicken and waffles. Meanwhile new gastronomic destinations like Acamaya in the Bywater neighborhood offers such an elevated take on Mexican cuisine that they’d help lead the scene in Los Angeles, never mind New Orleans. No wonder its been recognized as one of The New York Times’s 50 Best American Restaurants, with its chef Ana Castro already nominated for a 2025 James Beard Award.
Then there’s Super Bowl LIX played this February at the Caesars Superdome. Like the World’s Fair in 1984, the game of all games galvanized investment across the city — seen most saliently in the form of a $435 million transformation of the former Harrah’s into the gleaming new Caesars New Orleans hotel and casino. Imagined to bump the Ritz Carlton and Four Seasons as the Crescent City’s luxury hospitably destination, the Caesars 340-room new tower features a Nobu Hotel, as well as a revitalized F&B program highlighted by a Nobu restaurant, where we dined on superb sushi and flaming A5 Japanese Wagyu. Add celebrated cajun chef Emeril Lagasse’s Emeril’s Brasserie, and an elegant new cocktail lounge near the sports book dubbed Octavia Bar. If you’re feeling adventurous, belly up to the bar under its dazzling $750,000 chandelier and play their “fortune teller Sazerac” game: roll the die to see what sort of Sazerac you’ve earned. We lucked out with a delicious smoked lemon peel and rhubarb spin. Octavia makes an ideal late night spot to enjoy a final nightcap, or cheeky mid-day launch to lube up for a day exploring the French Quarter Festival.
As a festival imagined For the city by the city, totally free of charge for everyone, the idea for the French Quarter Fest was from day one to celebrate the holy trilogy of New Orleans. First its singular history of music, arguably unmatched anywhere in the nation. Then, its people: an incomparably rich interweaving fabric of Cajun, Caribbean, French, Creole, African and Southern cultures. Last but not least, of course, the food: an epic jambalaya of lip-burning spices, chillies and oil, executed on a collection of eyebrow-raising meats eager to test even the bravest soul’s sense of gastronomic adventure.
Anyone who’s had the luck and joy of visiting NOLA can verify to the exceptional quality of all three — and how this eccentric trio of ingredients catalyze one other to create America’s most unique cultural melting pots. And that alchemy courses through every layer of FQF. Ambling between the six stages you will inevitably discover world class local talent, such as Grace Gibson — a beacon of soul and energy, electrifying the crowd with her modern day Janis Joplin vibes. Up at the Jack Daniels Stage near the Aquarium, you might catch the magnetic Indys Blu captivating the crowd with a stirring soul, jazz and R&B set that bared comparisons to the extreme talents of Erykah Badu. And that’s just on the stages.
Walking from one end of the festival to the other requires stepping into the streets of the French Quarter, pillared with stunning talent deserving of their own dedicated stages. We ran across a corner rapper, Unscripted, freestyling on any and every one who passed by with a nonstop bulletproof critique of clothing choices, sneakers and gaits. Whether noting likeliness to ‘80s sitcom star Alan Thicke or gassing on someone’s New Balances, every time we passed his mesmerized viewers rolled with laughter. Passing into Jackson Square, the National Landmark played northern terminal to the festival with its own mini gala. It is impossible to stand in Jackson Square and not soak in the profound sense of history. Over the centuries the city’s central plaza hosted moments of great import — like the signing of the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, doubling the size of the United States — and tragedy, such as countless public executions of civic heroes like Jean Saint Malo, the leader of a group of escaped slaves dubbed the Maroons.
Here the history sinks as dense and overpowering as the rich Crawfish Etouffee sold in the various food vendors circumventing the square’s wrought iron fence. Under the shade of looming oaks we feasted on roasted duck po-boys and rabbit jambalaya from Crabby Jacks, Broussard’s crawfish salad rolls and crispy Gulf oysters from Boulevard American Bistro. Fascinated by Jacques-Imo’s shrimp and alligator cheesecake for dessert, we were pleasantly surprised to find this gooey slab of pie savory and not sweet. Elsewhere you’ll find delicacies from the aforementioned Thai Nola, Ajun Cajun and Pho Bang NOLA.
While eating our po boys and sipping on Abita Lager, Louis Ford & His New Orleans Flairs entertained us for an hour. Bouncing festive Dixieland across the park — from the iconic St. Louis Cathedral to the gilded terraces of the Pontalba Buildings — Ford’s renowned clarinet took generous turns with the world-class talents of his Flairs partners. After our meal we walked to the Abita Beer Riverfront stage and chanced on Flagboy Giz & the Wild Tchoupitoulas — a mind-blowing manifestation of New Orleans history plumed in vividly elaborate costumes. Under his bright turquoise headwear, Flagboy Giz led his Wild Tchoupitoulas through an hour-long set of indescribable music: a callback-entrenched boogie spinning somewhere between Cash Money-style southern rap and gospel. Later we learned the Mardi Gras Indian movement they represent celebrates the bond between escaped slaves and Native American tribes, including the eponymous Tchoupitoulas who not only offered refuge to escaped slaves in the nearby swamps, but also often fought side-by-side against the slave owners.
Despite being a free event, every day but Saturday was a breeze wandering from one end of the fest to the other, rarely waiting long for anything. These walks are a joy unto themselves, regularly punctuated with wafts of barbecued meats filling the warm, humid yet forgiving Louisiana air. And while Saturday crowds packed the Mississippi River front, it never felt suffocating. You might have to wait five minutes for an beer or neon green Hand Grenade, or ten minutes at the most popular food vendors at worst. One time headed to Jackson Square we passed the world famous Café Dumonde, saw an empty table among the madness and walked right in. Every other time we’ve visited New Orleans the line to sample their world-famous beignets could be an hour long. Not today — we walked right in, grabbed a table and ordered a couple sets of their perfectly fried dough, buried under an inch of white sugar dust, along with iced café au laits for a quick recharge.
The opportunity to discover new music is equally balanced with the ability to witness living legends like Irma Thomas, the Soul Queen of New Orleans. She doesn’t perform with a set playlist, preferring to let the eager audience shout out favorites and impromptu whatever she feels like singing. Perhaps the highlight of the entire weekend, Thomas performs with a remarkable verve and joy for an 80-year-old. At one point just after singing Tina Turner’s “Simply the Best,” the Soul Queen amicably implores the massive audience to donate to New Orleans’ local radio station to support local music. Beyond the stage, countless ships of commerce pass along on the Mississippi — a river flowing with profound history of industry, war, joy, pain, jazz, freedom and slavery, reminding you that no matter the challenges, New Orleans will survive. Try experiencing that at Coachella.
Follow Deputy Editor Nicolas Stecher on Instagram at @nickstecher and @boozeoftheday.