Red Swiss chard looks like a vegetal road map, as the bright-red stalk sends myriad crimson veins throughout the deep-green leaf. And it’s not just the ruby roadways that make red Swiss chard’s large leaf so visually dramatic. The glossy leaf doesn’t lie flat. Ruffles around the veins create irregular folds that look like those in a crumpled organdy petticoat.
Other chard varieties that are often available in supermarkets and farmers markets include common green chard (white stalk and veins) and rainbow chard (several colors of stalks and veins, including orange, pink, purple, and gold). All varieties are interchangeable in recipes.
Although it’s a member of the beet family, chard has a gentle flavor profile that is similar to spinach. Many cooks say it’s sweeter than spinach, especially the crunchy stalks.
Stem or Leaf: Both stem and leaf are edible, but most dishes use just the leafy part, directing cooks to remove the stalk before cooking. The leaves can be blanched, steamed or sauteed; the stalks can be blanched, gratineed or braised. If the stalks are included with the greens, they are generally sliced or diced and are added to cook a few minutes before the leafy part comes to the party.
Separating Leaf from Stem: It’s easy to separate the stem from the leaf. First, wash well in several changes of cold water, then trim along the stem with kitchen scissors or a knife, or fold the leaf next to the rib and pull it away from stalk along the newly made crease.
Use Up Those Stalks — A Gratinee: Cut stalks from 2 pounds chard into 3-inch long pieces and wash thoroughly in cold water. Cook in boiling water until tender (cooking time varies according to thickness of stalks). Drain. Place in buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with a little salt, 2/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and dot with 1 tablespoon butter cut into tiny pieces. Bake on top rack of preheated 400-degree oven until cheese melts and forms a golden crust. (Adapted from “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking” by Marcella Hazen).
Enjoy this nutrient-rich veg in these delicious dishes.
Asian-Themed Chard on Rice
Augmenting chard leaves with Asian ingredients creates a delectable topper for rice. It uses a technique that is a combination of stir-frying and steaming. When buying chard, look for stalks that are fairly stiff and crisp without bruises or brown spots. Leaves should be crisp without brown spots. To store, keep it unwashed and dry, loosely packed into a plastic bag, and then place it in crisper drawer of refrigerator for several days. Wash it just before use.
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
2 pounds of chard
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon fresh minced ginger
2 tablespoons water
1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
Pinch of dried red chili flakes
1 teaspoon toasted Asian-style sesame oil
4 cups cooked rice
Garnish: 2 green onions, trimmed and sliced crosswise
DIRECTIONS
1. Remove stalks from 2 pounds chard (just the leaves are used in this recipe). Roughly chop leaves and wash thoroughly in cold water; leave water on leaves. Heat vegetable oil in large, deep skillet or Dutch oven on medium-high heat. Add minced garlic and minced fresh ginger. Stir and cook for about 20 seconds (do NOT brown garlic). Add chard and 2 tablespoons of water. Cover and cook for about 5 minutes or until chard is cooked through and softened.
2. Stir in soy sauce, oyster sauce, pinch of dried red pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Toss and cook 1 additional minute. Serve over cooked rice and garnish with thinly sliced green onion.
Beef Tri-Tip with Chard, Olives, and Capers
This Italian-style tri-tip dish pairs the beef with chard, olives and capers. The recipe was created by chef-restaurateur Michael Symon. He likes to add both chard leaves and stems, cut into 1/2-inch slices. I like to serve the dish atop cooked pasta (such as farfalle, orzo, or macaroni) or rice. Symon serves it as is. The choice is yours.
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 pound beef tri-tip, cut into 1-inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 cups sliced (washed first) Swiss chard, leaves and stems
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes with juices, San Marzano preferred
1/3 cup halved pitted Kalamata olives
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained
Optional for serving: Cooked pasta or rice
DIRECTIONS
1. Put a large, deep skillet on high heat. Season both sides of beef with salt and pepper. Add the olive oil to the pan. Add the beef in a single layer and cook, without stirring, for 1 minute. Flip and cook, without stirring, for 1 minute for medium-rare. Remove to platter.
2. To the pan, add the chard, garlic and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chard begins to wilt, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes with their juice, the olives, capers and seared beef (along with any accumulated juice) and cook until everything comes together and the sauce reduces slightly, about 2 to 4 minutes. Serve as is or spoon over cooked pasta or rice.
Source: Adapted from “5 in 5 for Every Season” by Michael Symon
Ravioli en Brodo
At my local supermarket, three refrigerated shelves showcase fresh pasta. One section displays ravioli treasures, stuffed with a wide variety of fillings. Some are round, some traditionally square. Those delectable pasta pillows make this old cook grin.
I remember the day when I made them from scratch. Decades ago, fresh pasta didn’t exist in the marketplace, so enjoying fresh ravioli required time and commitment. I think cookbook author Ina Garten has a similar appreciation for ready-to-cook ravioli. She features storebought ravioli in a tempting soup.
Garten suggests making homemade chicken stock for her soup, Ravioli en Brodo, but I’ve made it with a good-quality canned chicken broth, and it tastes delicious. I’ve adapted the recipe to include chard.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup good olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onions (2 onions)
2 cups (1/2-inch thick) diagonally sliced carrots, scrubbed (3 to 5 carrots); see cook’s notes
1 1/2 cups (1/2- inch thick) diced fennel bulb, top and core removed
8 cups simmering chicken broth
1 1/2 cups chard leaves, cut into manageable pieces
2 cups water
Optional: 1 Italian Parmesan cheese rind (about 2-by-3-inches)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pound cheese ravioli, fresh or frozen
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving
Minced fresh dill or parsley, for serving
Freshly squeezed lemon juice, for serving
Cook’s notes: Cut thick carrots in half lengthwise, then cut them 1/2 inch thick diagonally.
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat 1/4 cup of olive oil in a medium (10- to 11-inch) pot or Dutch oven, over medium heat, Add onions, carrots, and fennel; cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened. Add chicken broth, chard, 2 cups water, Parmesan rind (if using), 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Bring to boil. Lower heat and simmer partially covered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the Parmesan rind if using and taste soup for seasoning.
2. Meanwhile cook the ravioli in a large pot of boiling water according to package directions, stirring occasionally. Drain and spread out of plate so that they don’t stick together.
3. For serving, place warm ravioli in large soup bowls and ladle the hot soup over them. Sprinkle with Parmesan, dill, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve hot.
Source: Adapted from “Go-To Dinners” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, $35)