Everyone loves Hanukkah — the colorful candles, the traditional songs, the gifts, and, of course, the potato latkes. Yet holiday cooking often means excess — all that frying, high carbs, and lots of sour cream.
Interestingly, the Hanukkah miracle highlights olive oil, which originated in the eastern Mediterranean, and not potatoes. They were unknown in the Holy Land until long after the discovery of the New World. Making potato latkes for Hanukkah became popular through the influence of European Jews.
Fortunately, we can create delicious, healthier Hanukkah celebrations by emphasizing Mediterranean specialties, such as stews featuring pulses and vegetables. Even potatoes can be enjoyed guilt-free when roasted or prepared as lighter latkes.
This Hanukkah, we plan to make potato and leek latkes with sun-dried tomato tapenade and harissa roasted potatoes. We will also prepare Southern Italian giambotta, a hearty vegetable medley with chickpeas and potatoes; and Sicilian caponata, a sweet-and-sour eggplant dish in an olive-caper sauce.
Vegan Potato Latkes with Leeks
These creamy-textured latkes are made from mashed potatoes with sauteed leeks and dill. Serve them with dill-flavored yogurt or a fruit puree.
Yield: 15 latkes
INGREDIENTS
Vegan Dill Yogurt Topping:
1 cup unsweetened plain plant-based yogurt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Latkes:
1 1/2 pounds yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon Gold (about 6 medium)
3/4 pound leeks, dark green tops discarded
5 tablespoons olive oil, more if needed (divided)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 teaspoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons plain dry breadcrumbs
Dill sprigs (optional garnish)
DIRECTIONS
1. Topping: Mix yogurt with dill, salt and pepper in a small bowl, Cover and refrigerate in a covered container for 1 hour to blend flavors, or until ready to serve.
2. In a saucepan, cover whole potatoes with water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 30 minutes, or until very tender when pierced with a fork. Drain; rinse briefly with cold water. Let stand until cool enough to handle.
3. Halve leeks lengthwise, rinse well and cut into 1/4-inch slices. Put sliced leeks in a bowl of cold water; rub to separate the layers. Soak them 3 minutes to remove any sand. Lift leeks into a colander, rinse and drain well.
4. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large heavy skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat. Add leeks; salt and pepper. Cook, stirring very often, 5 minutes. Cook, covered, over low heat 5 more minutes, or until soft but not brown. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat, stirring, to evaporate any liquid in pan.
5.Peel potatoes; transfer to a large bowl. Mash thoroughly with a potato masher (not in a food processor).
6. Add leeks to mashed potatoes. Add dill, salt, pepper and breadcrumbs; mix well. Taste; season well. Using a 1/4-cup measure for each latke, put some of mixture in your palm and flatten it to a 2 1/2-inch patty about 3/8 inch thick, patting it with both hands to make it smooth and compact. Set latkes on a plate.
7. Heat oven to 250 degrees (for keeping latkes warm).
8. Wipe skillet clean. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in skillet over medium heat. Add 4 latkes to pan, or enough to make one layer without crowding. Fry 3 minutes on each side, or until brown; turn carefully using 2 wide pancake turners. Keep warm on a baking sheet in oven while frying remaining pancakes. Add more oil to pan if it becomes dry.
9. Set latkes on a paper-towel-lined plate. Pat tops with the towels to remove excess oil. Serve hot, with topping. Garnish with dill sprigs.
Garlicky Sun-Dried Tomato Tapenade
This pungent condiment flavored with capers and olives, from “Cold Canning” by Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, is delicious on latkes and on toast; pair with Greek yogurt if you like. Choose plump dried tomatoes to make it.
Yield: About 1 cup
INGREDIENTS
1/2 cup olive oil
8 medium garlic cloves, peeled, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons drained capers
1/2 cup dry-packed sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced or snipped in strips with scissors
1 1/2 cups pitted black Kalamata olives
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon kosher salt
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat a small skillet over medium heat for 1 or 2 minutes. Swirl in the oil; add garlic and capers. Cook, stirring often, until garlic begins to brown at edges, about 2 minutes,
2. Remove from heat. Stir in dried tomato strips. Cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
3. Scrape contents of skillet into a food processor, Add olives, vinegar, oregano and salt. Cover and pulse repeatedly, uncovering and rearranging ingredients with a rubber spatula as necessary, until mixture has consistency of coarse, slushy relish.
4. Transfer to 2 clean half-pint jars, leaving about 1/2 inch headspace in each. Cover or seal; refrigerate or freeze. It keeps up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
Applesauce Alternatives
Like applesauce, purees made from other fruits go well with latkes. We like purees from plums, nectarines and blueberries but fruit purees can be combined for a different effect. Mary Shrader, author of “The Modern Pioneer Pantry,” recommends high-acid fruit for this recipe because she preserves the puree by canning it. For small amounts, we refrigerate or freeze it.
Yield: 3 to 4 half pints
INGREDIENTS
4 cups blueberries, peaches, nectarines or plums, peeled and trimmed, pits removed
1 cup water
Granulated sugar, to taste (optional)
DIRECTIONS
1. Combine fruit and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring. Reduce heat to low; simmer fruit until soft, stirring often to prevent sticking. Remove from heat.
2. Puree fruit in a food mill, fine-mesh strainer or food processor.
3. Rinse saucepan; add puree and sugar to taste. Bring to a boil, stirring, making sure sugar is completely dissolved. Cool and transfer to jars. Refrigerate or freeze.
Calabrian Vegetable Stew — Giambotta
This satisfying, aromatic stew from “Vegana Italiana” by Tara Punzone with Gene Stone begins with a sauté of onions, carrots, celery, garlic and herbs, followed by the Mediterranean favorites of eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, and chickpeas, as well as potatoes.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cups diced onion
1 cup diced celery
1 cup diced carrots
2 tablespoon finely sliced garlic
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 cups medium-diced Yukon Gold potatoes
1 cup diced eggplant
1 cup diced red bell peppers
1 3/4 pounds thin skinned small tomatoes, diced, or a 28-oz can whole peeled tomatoes, mashed
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup chopped parsley, including stems
1 cup drained cooked chickpeas, or packaged or canned
1 cup diced zucchini
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup basil leaves, torn into small pieces
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat oil in a stew pan over medium heat. Add onion, celery, carrots, garlic, thyme, tarragon and pepper flakes. Sauté 8 minutes, or until onion is translucent.
2. Add potatoes; sauté 5 minutes. Add eggplant and peppers; sauté 3 minutes.
3. Add tomatoes, bay leaves and parsley; cook at a low boil 15 minutes.
4. Add chickpeas, zucchini, salt and pepper, Cook for 5 minutes; the vegetables should be firm, not mushy.
5. Remove from heat. Discard bay leaves, Add basil just before serving.
Harissa Roasted Potatoes
For this spicy dish from “Delicious Gatherings” by Tara Bench, the potatoes are roasted with harissa, then served with pistachios, herbs and yogurt.
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1½ pounds baby Yukon Gold or creamer potatoes
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons harissa
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon honey
2 garlic cloves, minced
1¼ cups plain whole milk yogurt or Greek yogurt
Pistachio Topping:
5 tablespoons finely chopped pistachios
2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped oregano
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with nonstick foil.
2. In a medium saucepan, cover potatoes with water and add salt. Bring to a simmer. Cook until just tender when checked with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain; let cool enough to handle.
3. Harissa sauce: In a large bowl, whisk together harissa, oil, honey and garlic.
4. Cut cooled potatoes in half, or larger potatoes in 2-inch pieces. Toss with harissa mixture.
5. Put potatoes on prepared baking sheet. Roast until crisp and golden, 25 to 30 minutes, turning potatoes over halfway through cooking.
6. Topping: Combine pistachios, onion, parsley and oregano in a small bowl.
7. To serve, spoon yogurt onto a serving platter and top with potatoes. Sprinkle with topping.
Eggplant Caponata
In their book, “Olive Oil for Dummies,” authors Amy Riolo and Simon Poole, MD, recommend serving this Sicilian specialty as an appetizer, salad, or accompaniment for grilled meat or fish. It’s perfect with potato latkes.
Yield: 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
3 small eggplants, cut in 1/4-inch cubes
2 tablespoon sea salt
2 tablespoon extra virgin oil, plus more for frying or roasting
1 celery stick, cubed
1 onion, diced
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup pitted green olives, chopped
1/3 to 1/2 cup balsamic or red wine vinegar
1 to 2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1/4 cup finely chopped mint
1/4 cup finely chopped basil
1/4 cup raisins
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
DIRECTIONS
1. Place eggplant cubes in a colander, sprinkle with sea salt and let stand 1 hour. Rinse well; pat dry.
2. Heat 2 inches of oil in a large, heavy skillet to 385 degrees. Fry eggplant in 3 batches, about 3 minutes for each. Drain on a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Alternatively, roast eggplant with 3 tablespoons olive oil at 400 degrees in an air-fryer toaster/convection oven for 15 minutes or until tender.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a very large, wide, deep skillet over medium heat. Add celery and onion. Sauté until golden and soft, about 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in capers, olives, vinegar, sugar and reserved eggplant.
4. Add tomato sauce, mint, basil, raisins and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes.
5. Serve at room temperature, garnished with pine nuts.
Garlic Potato Wedges with Pine Nut Parmesan
This dish is based on a recipe in “Vegana Italiana” by Tara Punzone with Gene Stone. You can make vegan Parmesan with macadamia nuts instead of pine nuts.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
1/4 to 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 to 3 teaspoon sea salt
2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon paprika
Chopped parsley (for sprinkling)
Vegan Parmesan:
1 cup pine nuts
3/4 to 1 cup nutritional yeast
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut potatoes in 3/4-inch wedges.
2. In a large bowl mix olive oil with garlic, salt, rosemary, pepper, onion powder and paprikas.
3. Add potatoes. Toss, coating each piece well.
4. Place potatoes on a baking sheet. Bake 25 minutes or until a fork inserted in thickest piece goes straight through.
5. Vegan Parmesan: Pulse nuts, yeast and salt in a high speed blender or food processor until mixture has consistency of a fine crumble. Do not overprocess into a paste. Store in a jar.
6. Serve potatoes sprinkled with parsley and pine nut Parmesan.
Faye Levy is the author of “1,000 Jewish Recipes” and “Feast from the Mideast.”