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Taste-Off: Ranking frozen taquitos from crispy and spicy to empty and bland

Crispy, salty, tasty and so easy to eat, taquitos are a perfect party food. They’re great on their own, even better when dipped in guacamole, salsa or sour cream.

These slim rolls, made by tightly rolling a corn or flour tortilla around filling, then dropping it into a fryer until crispy, are similar to a flauta but smaller, and typically served as an appetizer rather than an entree.

Taquitos are made with a wide range of fillings, including chicken, cheese, beef and beans.

No matter the filling, taquitos are the epitome of Tex-Mex/Cal-Mex cuisine, as they incorporate Mexican flavors into a newer, nontraditional format. They are said to have originated in Southern California in the 1920s, and entered the frozen aisle in the 1970s.

Before we share details about the six brands of frozen beef and bean taquitos we found at local markets, be aware that, like many snacks, taquitos aren’t a health food. They’re loaded with fat, salt and often artificial colors, and should be enjoyed in moderation.

Good taquitos bake up crispy on the outside and have boldly seasoned filling bursting out the ends. Every bite delivers a combination of textures and a satisfying blast of spicy Mexican flavors.

Bad taquitos are little more than greasy tortillas wrapped around bland, pasty filling. The worst are hollow rolls filled with such a minuscule amount of filling that it’s hard to find.

Here are details on the toasty, tasty rolls of taquito deliciousness and the sad, nearly empty impostors. Nutrition info refers to 78 grams, about 2 taquitos.

José Olé Double Stuffed Beef Taquitos

Meaty filling with lots of spice that fills the roll end-to-end earn these a solid thumbs-up. They’re greasy and too salty, but tasty nonetheless. 200 calories, 12 grams fat, 460 milligrams sodium, 6 grams protein. $7.49 for 16.5 ounces, or 12 taquitos, at Smart & Final. (3 1/2 stars)

Trader Joe’s Black Bean & Cheese Taquitos

Deliciously rich bean dip rolled inside a fresh, corn-forward tortilla make for a moist, satisfying bite. The hit of spice from jalapeños adds a welcome kick of heat. 195 calories, 9 grams fat, 441 milligrams sodium, 6 grams protein. $4.49 for 16 ounces, or 12 taquitos. (3 1/2 stars)

Great Value Beef Taquitos

While these rolls are fully filled with slightly spicy shredded meat and chilies, they lean bland. Dip them in salsa or guacamole, and they’d be just fine. 211 calories, 11 grams fat, 303 milligrams sodium, 6 grams protein. $4.98 for 20 ounces, or 20 taquitos, at Walmart. (3 stars)

Delimex Cocina Beef Carne de Res Taquitos

For those looking for a slightly more healthy, traditional taquito, these are a decent pick. The salt is in check, and the flavors of both the tortilla and the filling are good, but the tubes are only 2/3 filled and the filling is pasty. 198 calories, 9 grams fat, 291 milligrams sodium, 7 grams protein. $6.29 for 20 ounces, or 20 taquitos, at Smart & Final. (2 1/2 stars)

Menu Del Sol Beef Taquitos

The extra-yellow colored tortillas in this box look appetizing, but the minuscule dollop of filling consists of barely seasoned ground beef. 201 calories, 11 grams fat, 164 milligrams sodium, 5 grams protein. $4.49 for 19.75 ounces, or 20 taquitos, at Smart & Final. (1/2 star)

El Monterey Steak & Cheese Taquitos

These mostly hollow tubes of rolled and fried flour tortilla seem like a joke, especially since the label promises “Steak & Cheese.” Break the tube in half to find an unfortunate pinch of old-tasting, chewy beef. These are an epic fail, and a total rip-off. 211 calories, 9 grams fat, 284 milligrams sodium, 6 grams protein. $8.49 for 20 ounces, or 20 taquitos, at Safeway. (no stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-Off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.

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