By Chris Hewitt, The Minnesota Star Tribune
I was as surprised as anyone to find myself on a Saturday afternoon in October doing a mashed potato science experiment.
The journey started just before Thanksgiving last year, when my sister and I discussed an episode of “Milk Street Kitchen” where the experts trumpeted a new, supposedly better, way to mash, with the usual ingredients (potatoes, milk, butter, salt and pepper) but a new technique. We were intrigued, but decided we better not mess with a key component of our super-traditional Thanksgiving dinner. It’s not that we thought a basic mash was unimprovable — it is improvable, which is why heretics sometimes add garlic, sour cream or Gruyere — but a last-minute switcheroo seemed like a bad idea without having tried it first.
Cut to me in October, trying it. My friend Peter and I set up a control group with the usual method: boil cut-up potatoes (I like Yukon Gold) in water, pulverize them and then add in milk and butter. At the same time, we also tried the “Milk Street” method, in which you simmer the potatoes in milk (you don’t want to boil, which would scald the milk) until it’s almost all absorbed, then mash the butter in. In both cases, I used a hand masher rather than a ricer or food processor.
Long story short: The “Milk Street” method is better. Way better.
The control group was still good but, when tasted side-by-side with the cooked-in-milk version, they seemed watery and as bland as mashed potatoes are always accused of being. Cooking potatoes in milk makes them richer, with almost a caramelized element, and with a much creamier consistency, as if they’ve been whipped. They feel fancier, restaurant-y, but I’m confident they’d go great with the rest of the Thanksgiving meal stations of the cross.
This recommendation comes with some cautions:
- If you have people wedded to the Thanksgiving components they’ve enjoyed since the Carter administration, they will notice the difference.
- I like my mashed potatoes a little less creamy, so I’d cut a half cup of milk next time.
- Watch out for the salt because, unlike the usual method, you’re not going to be pouring off any of it with the cooking water.
- The Milk Street potatoes may be a bit lumpy, possibly because the milk is there from the get-go, instead of being added after you’ve mashed the potatoes until smooth.
The biggest concern may be that, unless you make them ahead, these potatoes place additional demands on your holiday-challenged stovetop. They cook at a much lower heat than the boiled-in-water variety, which means they’re on the range for more than twice as long, competing for space with the stuffing veggies, gravy, the succotash you’re making for your vegan nephew and everything else.
But if you have a six-burner model or special appliances to take the heat off your stove, these mashed potatoes are worth a try at Thanksgiving. Or at least an experiment 11 months later.
Milk-Simmered Mashed Potatoes
Serves 8.
Adapted from Milk Street Kitchen.
- 4 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-in. chunks
- 5 c. whole milk
- 2 tsp. salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 stick butter, softened and cut into pieces
Directions
Place potatoes in a big pot with the milk, which should almost cover the potatoes, and salt. Bring to a simmer (don’t boil) and cook on low until most of the milk is absorbed and the potatoes are tender (it took mine about 50 minutes). Stir frequently to avoid scorching. Remove from the heat, add butter and mash with a hand masher, seasoning with additional salt and pepper to taste.
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