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Travel: This hotel floats — and it’s the best way to see Palau

Snorkeling among countless stingless jellyfish in far-off Micronesia would’ve been a pinch-me moment on its own. But doing so in one of the world’s few marine lakes — and without another tourist in sight — well, cruise adventures don’t get much better than that.

Ah, but this wasn’t a cruise, at least not in the traditional sense. True, the jellyfish encounter took place aboard a superyacht — the Four Seasons Explorer, gliding through otherworldly Palau — but the experience felt more like a stay at a luxury hotel than a traditional cruise.

That impression wasn’t just personal, but the goal of a hospitality brand attuned to a growing trend that finds travelers craving less structure and more serendipity. Unlike conventional cruise ships, the Explorer lets guests embark or disembark any day, a rare freedom that reinforces its identity as a bona fide floating hotel.

Four Seasons Explorer is anchored amid the emerald labyrinth of Palau’s Rock Islands. (Photo by David Dickstein)

This shift in travel preferences is being driven by a rising tide of wanderlusters seeking sea journeys without scripts, or at least any set in stone. Aboard the Explorer, daily schedules suggest mealtimes and optional activities, but the rhythm is looser, shaped by spontaneity, opportunity and fancy.

The Explorer is a standout example of a floating hotel, or as our portmanteau-loving culture has dubbed them, floatels. By either name, they’ve emerged as a distinct category — somewhere between yacht charter and resort stay — presenting the best of both without the excess of either.

Not to be confused with the less exotic kind of floating hotel that simply bobs while moored, like the King Pacific Lodge on Milbanke Sound in British Columbia. The kind we’re talking about are small, design-forward vessels powered by the freedom to drift, discover, relax and reroute, all without sacrificing comfort. They’re not anti-cruise — they’re pro-flexibility, allergic to rigid schedules and gangways that feel more like cattle round-ups than welcomes aboard.

The Four Seasons Explorer (fourseasons.com/explorerpalau) is uniquely positioned as a luxury vessel with hotel-like freedom — a standout for vacationers who value mobility and impulse. Its closest competition lies not in format, but in luxury.

The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection (ritzcarltonyachtcollection.com) offers beautifully designed ships — Evrima, Ilma and Luminara — with spacious suites and curated shore excursions, but they sail on seasonal itineraries with fixed departure dates. The Orient Express Silenseas (sailing-yachts.orient-express.com), debuting in June 2026, will be the largest wind-powered sailing yacht afloat, complete with art deco suites and hybrid propulsion. Like its peers, it will follow a timetable: Mediterranean summers, Caribbean winters. Aman’s upcoming superyacht, Amangati (amanatsea.com), launching in spring 2027, promises a 600-foot floating sanctuary with 47 suites, minimalist Japanese-inspired design and ultra-luxury amenities. It, too, will sail seasonally, offering curated and chartered itineraries.

Four Seasons Explorer crew bids a fond mechikung to departing guests. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Back aboard the Explorer, embarkations and debarkations are offered daily and with no minimum stay, making it one of the most flexible floatel experiences in the world. The 22-passenger, 128-foot catamaran offers the intimacy of a private island and the comfort of a resort that knows your favorite cocktail or how you like your tea.

Built for Micronesia’s terrain, the Explorer has felt at home in Palau since repositioning from the Maldives in December 2023. Nimble enough to reach remote dive sites and quiet coves, polished enough to offer reef-to-table dining and curated excursions, it’s reshaping what a floating hotel can be — less cruise ship, more mobile basecamp for ocean discovery.

A guide leads guests through a submerged WWII plane wreck, a haunting relic beneath Palau’s Rock Islands. (Courtesy Four Seasons Explorer)

The Explorer anchors near World War II wrecks, drifts above coral gardens and pivots its itinerary based on weather, wildlife or guest preference. Guests might snorkel with bumphead parrotfish before breakfast or kayak around islands that weren’t on yesterday’s map.

For scuba divers, the Explorer offers front-row access to arguably the best scuba diving on the planet. Anchored near legendary sites, the vessel makes it easy to dive up to three times a day, and the experience is always intimate and immersive. At the ready is a crackerjack team that blends deep expertise with warm hospitality. The guides welcome beginners with patience, support seasoned divers with precision and keep gear in top condition throughout.

Pan-seared reef fish is a winning dish out of Explorer’s galley. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Onboard, the mood is relaxed yet refined. Dining blends fresh seafood, Asian-Pacific flair and global classics, served indoors or outdoors depending on the breeze and guest whim. The culinary team accommodates dietary needs with ease, and libations flow as smoothly as the service, which rivals any luxury hotel. When this guest requested his go-to drink — a jalapeño martini — the bartender rose to the challenge, crafting his first with confident flair.

The common areas of the superyacht are quietly stately, with teak accents, neutral tones and a layout that favors function over flash. No casino. No nightly entertainment. No shopping arcade. Rather, there’s a dive deck, a sundeck, a curtained-off corner of the top deck for professional massages, and a lounge that doubles as both briefing room and bar.

One design drawback deserves mention: the designated smoking area sits just off the corridor leading to most guest cabins. A watertight door helps contain the waft, but for smoke-sensitive travelers — or anyone hoping to enjoy fresh air while dining al fresco on deck two or unwinding on the sundeck — the stern-side placement is less than ideal.

The Explorer Suite boasts the most luxurious accommodations onboard the Four Seasons yacht in Palau. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The opposite can be said for the Explorer Suite, which, located toward the bow, is set apart from the main guestroom corridor. Spanning 484 square feet, the largest and most luxurious accommodations onboard comes with panoramic views, a private sundeck, full bathroom with tub and direct access to the lounge. The interior feels more boutique hotel than shipboard stateroom.

The remaining 10 cabins measure a comfortable 215 square feet, thoughtfully designed with large windows, en-suite bathrooms and flexible configurations for couples — or, at the risk of drawing snarls from kidless adult guests, small families. Each stateroom is outfitted with amenities consistent with Four Seasons’ luxury standards. Even the Wi-Fi is excellent.

Amenities and adventure at this level don’t come cheap. Nightly rates start at around $3,800 per room (based on double occupancy), inclusive of all meals, unlimited diving, water sports, cultural excursions and wellness experiences, though massages are a la carte. This figure includes taxes and fees.

Palau: A Living Atlas

A WWII Japanese tank sits rusting in the Palauan sun, struck by U.S. Marines in 1944 and left to the elements. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The Explorer offers a roving expedition into the blue reaches of western Micronesia, where Palau’s coral gardens, hidden lagoons and uninhabited islets unfold like a living atlas of wonder.

Palau itself is the star, and a remote one at that. In fact, Palau’s closest neighboring country — the Philippines — is nearly 1,000 miles away. The alluring island nation is a UNESCO-designated marine sanctuary, home to more than 1,450 species of fish and 550 types of coral. The Explorer navigates its turquoise labyrinth with care. Guests snorkel with manta rays, paddle through mangrove channels and dine beneath constellations rarely visible from land.

A Four Seasons guide hovers in the shallows of Jellyfish Lake, eye to eye with a golden jellyfish. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Be sure that your stay includes a day when visiting Jellyfish Lake, which offers a surreal, sting-free swim among thousands of golden jellies. Their harmless nature is the result of evolutionary isolation; over millennia, these jellyfish lost the need for potent stingers in the predator-free waters of the lake, making it one of the few places where humans can drift peacefully among them.

Palau’s waters aren’t just beguiling and beautiful — they’re fiercely protected. As the first country to designate its entire ocean territory a sanctuary, Palau has banned commercial fishing across vast swaths of its exclusive economic zone and requires eco-pledges from all visitors. The Explorer operates in harmony with these principles, partnering with local guides and marine biologists to ensure minimal impact and maximum insight. Divers explore pristine reefs and dramatic drop-offs teeming with life, while non-divers gain a deeper understanding of reef restoration, traditional navigation and the delicate balance that keeps this ecosystem thriving.

Exploring Palau by sea often begins with a pause on land, as most flights to Koror from the U.S. arrive after dark following a layover in Guam, and transfers to the Explorer take place during daylight hours. That’s a good thing for guests who prefer to embark rested and recharged. Four Seasons’ concierge desk can assist with overnight arrangements, and in 2027 or 2028, those may include booking Explorer guests into a branded resort now under construction near the marina.

Palau Central Hotel in Koror is popular among among divers and liveaboard guests. (Photo by David Dickstein)

For now, at least, the best-reviewed lodging in Palau seems to be the Palau Central Hotel (palaucentral.com). The 48-room gem offers a practical, well-located base in the heart of Koror — ideal for travelers arriving late or departing early. With modern rooms, reliable Wi-Fi, a lively Key West-style restaurant and adjoining spa, not to mention easy access to shopping, sights and the marina, it’s a favorite among divers and liveaboard guests seeking comfort without the resort price tag. Standard rooms average around $200 a night — higher during peak season (December through April), lower in the off-peak months (July to early October).

While the must-sees on this trip are the stunning Rock Islands, swimmable Jellyfish Lake, spectacular dive sites, historical and cultural landmarks by bike and foot, and the Explorer itself, Koror has a few spots worthy of one’s time pre- or post-sail.

Some of the finest cuisine and sunset views in Koror are at Elilei Seaside Dining. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The Belau National Museum, the oldest in Micronesia, offers a thoughtful glimpse into Palau’s cultural heritage while the Palau Aquarium offers a compact, but engaging introduction to the region’s marine biodiversity. If those two attractions leave you wanting more culture and fish,  then get your fill at Elilai Seaside Dining (www.elilaipalau.com), widely regarded as Palau’s premier restaurant. Top island-inspired fare includes the grilled catch of the day (usually grouper or snapper), sesame-seared tuna and Koror mangrove clams so fresh, you may have locked eyes with one on a dive earlier in the trip — only alive.

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