Riding Amtrak for the first time? Here’s what you should know

Amtrak has a cult following of passenger rail enthusiasts and its own set of rules and eccentricities. Riding Amtrak from Chicago to San Francisco is not like flying the same route.

For one, it takes almost 10 times as long. But Amtrak also has its perks like dining cars and roomettes.

Here’s what you should know before you go:

You aren’t getting anywhere fast

Don’t count on your train getting where it’s going on time.

That’s partly because Amtrak doesn’t actually own most of the tracks its trains run on. Since Amtrak started operating in 1971, it has leased track rights from freight railroads and has to share the limited track space with freight trains.

In 2023, at least 25% of passengers were late on long-distance trains, according to Amtrak. On the California Zephyr, one of Amtrak’s most scenic cross-country routes, only 33% of customers made it to their destination on time.

Delays can vary significantly by route. You can track your train at amtrak.com/track-your-train.

Passengers board the inaugural run of Amtrak’s Train 41, the Floridian, bound for Miami at Union Station in the West Loop.

Pat Nabong/Sun-Times

Want the best price? Buy your tickets early

Amtrak’s pricing model works similarly to airlines and hotels — the earlier you buy your ticket, the cheaper it is. As the train sells out, prices tend to go up.

There are a few ways to get discounts. In the Midwest, Amtrak offers a 15% discount for students. And Amtrak often runs promotions in specific regions or on specific lines. Check amtrak.com/deals.

If you’re kicking yourself for buying a seat in coach for an overnight train, Amtrak allows customers to place a “bid” on an upgrade to a roomette or bedroom in a sleeper car. The amount of the winning bid depends on how much space is available on the sleepers.

Amtrak also has a points system and a rewards credit card that allow you to earn points toward rides and upgrades.

Get there early — but not too early

Don’t miss your train. On many long-distance routes, there’s only one train a day, if that, and it won’t wait for you.

But there’s no need to get there several hours early like you might for the airport. There are no security screenings; the baggage check-in process is quick and painless. And the kinds of restaurants and stores you see in an airport are only in stations in the biggest cities.

An early arrival can help if you’re traveling coach, which is usually first-come-first-served. Sitting near the center of a car is best, away from the restrooms and noisy doors.

What the heck is a roomette?

The next step up from coach is a roomette. These aren’t the most spacious compartments in the world, just two seats that an attendant folds into a bed at night. A second bunk pulls down from the ceiling. Showers and bathrooms are shared with other passengers in the car.

A romette on Amtrak’s Train 41, the Floridian, bound for Miami from Chicago.

Pat Nabong/Sun-Times

On the single-level Viewliner cars Amtrak uses in the eastern part of the United States, the upper bunk is the ideal spot. From the bunk, you’ll be able to lie on your side and see the landscape flying by.

Bedrooms come with different arrangements, depending on what kind of car it is, whether it’s a bi-level Superliner typically used on western routes or a Viewliner used on eastern ones. They all have a shower and toilet in the compartment — but there still isn’t a lot of room. If you’re using the shower or toilet in the room, be prepared to share a lot of personal space with your travel companion.

On certain routes, Amtrak also offers larger bedroom suites, family suites and accessible bedrooms. Details vary by train — check the Amtrak website for your specific line.

A bedroom on Amtrak’s Train 41, the Floridian, bound for Miami from Chicago.

Pat Nabong/Sun-Times

In coach overnight? Bring an eye mask and deodorant

If you’re not splurging on a roomette or bedroom, you can sleep in coach, but don’t expect comfort. It’s like flying in an airplane, except with more leg room, leg cushions, bigger windows and slightly more room to stretch out.

There are no showers in coach, so pack accordingly. Bring deodorant and basic toiletries like a toothbrush. I also like bringing makeup removal wipes to clean my face.

Bring an eye mask, ear plugs and a neck pillow or something similar to sleep on. A blanket is another necessity — the cars can get surprisingly cold in winter.

Eating on board

You absolutely can bring food — non-perishable things that don’t need to be refrigerated. Most routes have a cafe car, which offers a limited menu of sandwiches, drinks and other microwavable snacks for lower prices than what you’d pay on an airplane.

On overnight routes, many trains have a dining car available for sleeping car passengers that’s included in the fare. Amtrak has started allowing some coach passengers to buy a meal in the dining car, but it’s not available on all routes yet.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are cooked on board. On some trains, Amtrak is still offering “flexible dining,” a pandemic-era service for sleeping car passengers when kitchens and cooks are in short supply. Those meals are pre-prepared and reheated on board instead of cooked in the dining car’s kitchen.


How to keep yourself entertained

Amtrak offers free Wi-Fi on many trains, but service isn’t always reliable, especially in mountainous terrain or when there are a lot of passengers on board.

Many passengers keep things low-tech. On a recent run of the Amtrak Floridian from Chicago to Miami, we met passengers practicing ukulele, knitting, watching movies on computers, playing solitaire, coloring and reading books.


All aboard the Amtrak Floridian

Amtrak’s temporary Floridian route made its first run from Chicago to Miami on Sunday, Nov. 10. The Sun-Times rode along to explore the enduring appeal of train travel and the best ways to explore the country by rail.

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