If Los Angeles has an Avatar of BBQ, a King of Smoke, a Master of the Grill, then his name is Kevin Bludso, the Lord of Bludso’s BBQ. There are three branches of Bludso’s, two of which offer the option of sit-down consumption — the first on La Brea, the sequel in Santa Monica.
The third, and latest Bludso’s does not offer the option of inhaling in-house. The Van Nuys Bludso’s is takeout only — a warehouse of a space, on a street of many warehouses, and few restaurants. But if you feel the call of Bludso’s supremely smoky, tender, spicy, nigh-on perfect brisket — and can manage to drive it home without pulling over to tear the bag open, and stuff it all in your face — then Bludso’s BBQ to-go rules.
This is ’que as good as it gets here in SoCal – smoky meats that exude Texas roadhouse goodness, with a tad of an LA edge. I mean, do they offer barbecued jackfruit in Austin? The smart money says, not a chance.
Kevin Bludso is a local lad who knows his way around the complexities of Texas ’que. He was born and raised in Compton. His father was a police officer. To get him out of the ’hood, his parents sent him to Corsicana, Texas, come summer, where his grandmother ran a barbecue stand — and where he learned the subtleties, the ins-and-outs of smoking meat Texas-style.
He became not just a Master of the Pit, but also a historian of the genre, understanding which dishes had roots in Memphis, and which in Kansas City. In Los Angeles, he was schooled with meals at local legends like Woody’s, Philippe the Original and the iconic Mr. Jim’s — where the motto was, “You don’t need no teeth to eat our beef.”
He was to the barbecue pit born — an avocation that he continued during his 13 years working for the California Department of Corrections. Barbecue always called to him. And these days, he’s gone from running a local stand, to two sit-downs … and, in a somewhat full-circle moment, back to a stand serving the best ’que in the Valley.
He can be seen as a judge on the Netflix show “The American Barbecue Showdown.” He hung out with Guy Fieri on “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.” He’s got a cookbook, “Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul.” But mostly, Bludso is his ’que … and his ’que is Bludso. And SoCal as well.
I’ve been to barbecue stands in Texas. Unlike Bludso’s, they don’t offer homemade chips with creamy queso and Fresno peppers. They are devoid of barbecue chicken salad and turkey Caesar. But there is a shared commonality with the fried okra, the hushpuppies … and the fries loaded with Buffalo chicken, pulled pork or brisket. (That there are fries under all that is almost irrelevant.)
I have long been a brisket-aholic. I grew up eating Eastern European style brisket in the Bronx. And the quirky, textured nature of brisket isn’t just a flavor I adore — it’s part of my DNA.
The brisket at Bludso’s comes two ways, as it does at many ’que shops. There’s a fattier slice, and a leaner one. The debate between brisket partisans about which is best approaches religious zealotry. I argue that any brisket is better than no brisket. The full fat cut may have a deeper flavor. The leaner cut may have a more appealing texture.
The smokiness is pure and unabated. This is a wonderful brisket — perhaps even better on Bludso’s inspired brisket and hot link combo sandwich. With onions, pickles and sauce. If they eat this in Heaven, I’ll gladly repent of my sins.
I love the “threadishness” of the pulled pork. And the burnt edge of the rib tips. I prefer the rack of pork ribs to the “dinosaur” beef ribs, which exercise my teeth a bit more than they desire. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. But I’ve had enough dental work over the years that I worry I’ll swallow a crown along with the beef.
On the side, mac and cheese is essential, as are potato salad and coleslaw. The baked beans achieve glory with the addition of beef brisket, cooked long in much sauce.
Collard greens supply the dark greens we’re told we should be eating regularly. And one must order the cornbread because … one must order the cornbread.
Bludso’s has made lots of meal choices for us. There’s a Lunch Plate with two meats and two sides. There’s a smoked chicken Family Meal with sides and cornbread. There are trays for eight, 10 and 15. There’s sweet tea to drink, which separates Southerners from Northerners better than the Mason-Dixon Line.
There’s also banana pudding. Which for me, is what a meal of smoke should conclude with. The blackberry cobbler with ice cream sounds good. But banana pudding sounds better. It goes better with smoke than anything else. And it travels so well.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.
Bludso’s BBQ
- Rating: 3 stars
- Address: 13631 Saticoy St., Van Nuys
- Information: 818-849-5237; www.bludsosbbq.com
- Other locations: 609 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; and 1329 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica
- Cuisine: The first two branches of Bludso’s offer sit-down dining. The SF Valley branch is takeout only. Which works fine since this ’que travels perfectly. The biggest problem is the aroma might cause you to pull the car over and rip open the takeout bag. The temptation is powerful.
- When: Lunch and dinner, every day
- Details: Soft drinks; no reservations
- Prices: About $35 per person
- On the menu: 6 Starters ($9-$16), 3 Salads ($9-$15), 5 Sandwiches ($15-$17), 8 Quarter Pound Meats ($9-$13), 3 Big Meats ($10-$39), 3 Hot Sides ($7.50), 2 Cold Sides ($7), Cornbread ($4), Seasoned Fries ($8), 6 Extras ($2-$8), Family Meal ($45), Lunch Tray ($160), Bludso’s Tray ($220), Party Tray ($360), 3 Lunch Specials ($17-$25), 4 Desserts ($5-$10), 5 Drinks ($2.50-$3.50)
- Credit cards: MC, V
- What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)