A plump, ripe cherry is a culinary treasure, providing a vibrant flavor profile and toothsome texture. June is the beginning of cherry season. Prices generally drop when supply is greater as the summer heats up in July and August. Pits-in-place are fine for eating cherries out of hand, with teeth and tongue working to separate flesh from stone. Otherwise, the pits require removal. Trying to squeeze out the seed by hand is a messy proposition.
I loved the one-at-a-time cherry pitters I inherited from my late mother. But a couple of years ago I gave in to speed and convenience and bought a fancy cherry pitter. The new pitter, a Lamborghini of kitchen gadgets, works on 6 cherries at a time, pushing out the pits and leaving the cherries in pristine condition. It’s a gizmo that works something like a paper punch, pushing a shaft through the fruit to push out the seed. (One version is the OXO Good Grips Quick Release Multi-Cherry Pitter, about $24.95.)
Look for cherries that are bright, plump and firm. Avoid any with bruises, soft spots or cracks. Stems should be pliable and a lively green color. Refrigerate, unwashed, in a plastic bag in crisper drawer up to 7 days. Pitted cherries can be frozen (without stems) in single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Place frozen cherries in sealed airtight containers; freeze up to 6 months.
Candied Cherries
When they are abundant, I watch the market ads for fresh cherries at reduced sale prices. My goal is to make several batches of tempting candied cherries, a recipe gleamed from cookbook author David Lebovitz’s “Ready for Dessert: My Best Recipes.” The cherries, nestled in their syrup, can be refrigerated for up to six months in covered jars. Of course, these cherries along with their sauce are delicious spooned atop ice cream. But one of my favorite ways to enjoy them is dolloped over Trader Joe’s Meyer Lemon and Cream Yogurt. When no one is watching, I don’t take the yogurt out of the container. I simply spoon the candied cherries on the surface of the yogurt and grab a spoon.
Yield: About 2 cups
INGREDIENTS
2 cups sweet cherries, pitted
1 cup water or apple juice
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice; see cook’s notes
Variations: 1/8 teaspoon pure almond extract or 1 teaspoon amaretto liqueur; see cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: To double or triple this recipe, simmer a lemon slice (or two) with the cherries, then remove before transferring to jars. Use a Dutch oven rather than a saucepan and monitor as it cooks to prevent boil overs, reducing heat as needed.
For a variation, add either almond extract or amaretto liqueur to the cherries and stir, just before placing the mix into the jar(s).
DIRECTIONS
1. In a large, deep saucepan combine cherries, water or juice, sugar and lemon juice. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the juices are syrupy and thickened to the consistency of warm honey, 15 to 20 minutes. Keep an eye on the pan to prevent boil overs, reducing heat as needed. If you like, you can use a candy thermometer to gauge doneness; the mixture should register about 220 degrees. Note that the syrup thickens with refrigeration.
Source: “Ready for Dessert: My Best Recipes” by David Lebovitz
Cherry Clafouti
Something like a custardy baked pancake, clafouti is a French dessert that showcases fruit that is covered with a thick flan-like batter. Often dusted with powdered sugar, it’s served lukewarm or within 6 hours at room temperature. In this version, cherries are the stars.
I like to serve it with sweetened whipped cream or crème fraiche.
Leftovers, stored in the fridge, make a great breakfast treat, topped with sweetened yogurt and additional fresh berries.
Yield: About 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
Soft butter for greasing baking dish
3 cups pitted fresh sweet cherries
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, divided use
Optional: 1 teaspoon dried lavender buds; see cook’s notes
1/2 cup whole milk, see cook’s notes
1/2 cup (4 ounces) crème fraiche
4 large eggs
Pinch of salt
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
Powdered sugar
For serving as a dessert: Sweetened whipped cream or whipped crème fraiche
Cook’s notes: If you grow lavender, use the dried buds in this dish. The dried blooms are whirled in a food processor or blender to make lavender-scented sugar. Generally, I don’t have whole milk on hand, but I often have a container of whipping cream. So, I mix a little of that whipping cream into my milk that is 2 percent fat.
DIRECTIONS
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 9-inch ceramic baking dish, or a 2-quart gratin dish, or a 9-inch cake pan.
2. In medium bowl, gently toss pitted cherries with 1 tablespoon sugar; set aside while preparing the remaining ingredients.
3. If using dried lavender buds: In food processor or blender, combine 1/2 cup sugar with lavender and process 2 minutes until buds are mostly ground. Add milk, crème fraiche, eggs and salt. Process to combine. Add flour and pulse just to combine.
4. Arrange berries in prepared baking dish, then scrape egg mixture over them. Bake until “cake” is golden and center springs back when lightly touched, about 35 minutes.
5. Transfer to wire rack and cool. Dust with powdered sugar (put sugar in a fine-mesh sieve and shake over the top). Serve as a dessert accompanied with sweetened whipped cream or whipped crème fraiche.
Source: Adapted from “Dinner in French” by Melissa Clark (Clarkson Potter, $37.50)
Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Fresh Cherry Sauce
With its appealing sweet-sour flavor profile, a perky sauce that features sweet cherries can add pizazz to myriad entrees. It is delicious served with grilled pork tenderloins, but it can also team with ham, game, chicken or sautéed tofu. Or serve it cold spooned over Brie cheese. This version has very little spicy heat. For added spiciness had a little more cayenne.
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup vegetable oil or canola oil, plus extra oil for brushing grate
4 large cloves garlic, peeled, thinly sliced crosswise
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin or more to taste
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4 cup orange juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup water
2 pork tenderloins, about 1 1/4 pounds, sinew on exterior trimmed if present
Sauce:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil or canola oil
1 medium-size onion, roughly chopped
2 teaspoons minced orange zest
2 cups fresh cherries, pitted
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1/2 cup cherry preserves
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
Salt to taste
Vegetable oil for oiling grate
DIRECTIONS
1. On medium heat, heat 1/4 cup oil in deep, medium saucepan. Add garlic and cumin; cook until garlic is very pale golden color, 1 to 2 minutes (do not brown). Remove from heat and cautiously add juices (it may splatter), salt, pepper and water. Bring to boil on high heat. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Set large zipper-style bag in bowl to hold it upright. Add cooled marinade and pork tenderloins; seal the bag. Marinate in refrigerator at least 2 hours or up to eight hours, turning occasionally to redistribute marinade.
2. Prepare the sauce: Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook until softened, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add cherries, zest, cayenne, rosemary, preserves, vinegar and cloves. Boil on medium-high heat until thickened, stirring occasionally, for about 10 to 12 minutes. Season with salt.
3. Preheat grill. Remove pork from marinade; discard the marinade. Brush clean grate with oil. Grill tenderloins, about 4 minutes on each of their 4 sides. Check for doneness with instant-read thermometer. Interior temperature should be between 155 and 160 degrees. Remove from heat and set on cutting board. Allow it to rest for 5 minutes.
4. Cut meat crosswise into 3/4-inch slices. Serve pork slices accompanied with cherry sauce.
Source: “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce” by Cathy Thomas (Wiley, $29.95)