Often in the world of cocktails, people will get caught up in the main ingredient and then skimp on the accoutrements.
By now we know that the perfect garnish might be the difference between a great Gibson and a mediocre martini. And we should also know that since a margarita — and many other drinks — is two-thirds lime-sugar-agave mix to alcohol, it might make more sense to spend some more time making sure that mixer is great instead of the other way around.
But outside of those things, we also shouldn’t forget the other co-stars in every cocktail. And those co-stars often come in the form of cocktail bitters — the salt and pepper of the cocktail world — aromatized wines, like Cocchi Americano, Dubonnet, any vermouth or Lillet, and rimming salts and sugars, all of which are designed to add that je ne sais quoi to your cocktails — that little something extra that makes good great and great exceptional.
To that end, I have assembled three of my favorite co-stars for you to consider, all localized, of course, for your consumption.
• Abbott’s Aromatic Bitters, 4 ounces, 50% ABV, $19.99, Marin
Abbott’s Bitters was a brand of aromatic medicinal bitters that was popular during the early 20th century; it was produced up until the 1950s.
John Troia and Peter Schaf of Tempus Fugit Spirits, which is primarily an importer based in Novato and Europe, in cooperation with King Floyd’s Bitters in Novato, have resurrected the brand with a retro reproduction of the original label and a re-creation of the bitters itself. In the early 20th century, Abbott’s was embroiled in a legal fight over the use of the word “angostura” in its labeling. Siegert’s, another company, claimed ownership of the name, and eventually Abbott’s removed the “angostura” from its labeling, which is ironic since Siegert’s product did not contain angostura bark as a flavoring. Even more ironic, it was Siegert’s “Angostura Bitters” that went on to be the flagship of aromatic bitters for nearly a century, while Abbott’s went out of business.
This newer Abbott’s is aromatic and mildly medicinal with hints of saffron and cinnamon. Its bitterness is pronounced and long-lasting, making it delicious in old fashioneds or Manhattans where a little more punch is expected. But whatever you do, just don’t call it Angostura!
For more information or to purchase, go to tempusfugitspirits.com/products/abbotts-aromatic-bitters.
• Rue de Rêve’s Rouge aperitif wine, 750 milliliters, 18% ABV, $42, Sonoma County
Point of fact, vermouth is an aromatized aperitif wine, but not all aperitif wines are vermouth. Vermouth — vermut in German — means wormwood, and the bittering agent used in its production is artemisia absinthium, which is also used to make absinthe. Rue de Rêve, out of Sonoma County — produced at the Griffo Distillery — does not use wormwood in its red wine-based aperitif wine. Instead, they use gentian, which is most commonly found in cocktail bitters. Their Rouge is certainly reminiscent of red or sweet Italian vermouth but with some differences. Rêve’s Rogue is made from red wine, unlike red vermouth, which is made from white wine and then colored, fortified with grape brandy and then infused with orange, lemon and cardamom. Since it comes by its color, naturally it’s less sweet and more complex than many red vermouths. Excellent on its own, its fresh, bright flavor also marries well with traditional vermouth cocktails, whether it’s a Begroni or boulevardier. Rue de Rêve also produces both a Blanc aperitif wine similar to blanco vermouth — not “dry” vermouth — and a Rosé version.
For more information or to purchase, go to ruedereveaperitifs.com.
• DEBZ Sonoma’s Lavender/Lemon Rimming Sugar, 5.5 ounces, $10, Sonoma
Rimming salts and rimming sugars have been around for a long time. The Brandy Crusta and the margarita, both “daisy” drinks, but one rimmed in sugar and the other rimmed in salt, have kept the notion afloat for decades. But only recently have you seen more exotic variations on the theme. DEBZ Sonoma takes some of the guesswork out of the equation by creating both specialty sugars and salts, which are perfect for rimming cocktails. Longtime hospitality veteran and Sonoma native Debra DeMartini uses only organic sugars in her sugar blends and evaporated Pacific sea salt in her salts. My favorite is the lavender/lemon sugar. Both floral and bright, it adds both qualities in perfect proportion, eliminating the guesswork. Try it on a lemondrop — ironically another type of daisy — and you will see what I mean. Additionally, the sugar can be mixed with water to create more complex simple syrups — actually a type of oleo, but now we’re talking minutiae. DEBZ’s salt lineups are equally interesting: sage/rosemary/thyme for instance. And these salts can also be used to make saline solutions, which are all the rage right now — remember salted caramel? Use either, or both, to help elevate your cocktail experience. You won’t be sorry.
For more information or to purchase, go to debzsonoma.com. Jeff Burkhart is the author of “Twenty Years Behind Bars: The Spirited Adventures of a Real Bartender, Vol. I and II,” the host of the Barfly Podcast on iTunes (as seen in the NY Times) and an award-winning bartender at a local restaurant. Follow him at jeffburkhart.net and contact him at jeffbarflyIJ@outlook.com