By Millie Peartree, The New York Times
On Kiva Williams’ Juneteenth table, pops of red — barbecue ribs and watermelon, a symbol of freedom — share the table with hot dogs, burgers, potato salad and baked beans. Sometimes, foods from her past, like fried fish and spaghetti, and coleslaw, “my favorite meal from back home” in Tennessee, also make an appearance.
For Williams, who runs the Fun Foodie Mama blog, the celebration is a relatively small one, and recent. Williams, 44, didn’t grow up celebrating Juneteenth — she’d learned about the holiday from her parents but didn’t celebrate.
But, “as I grew older and had a family of my own, I wanted to be intentional with my kids on celebrating,” she said, adding that she hopes to pass down the celebration, its recipes and cooking traditions to her children. She and her family attend local festivals, spend time learning about the holiday and, of course, gather around a meal.
Red foods are customary for Juneteenth, the annual commemoration of the freeing of the last enslaved Africans in Galveston, Texas, 2 1/2 years after the signing of the Emancipation Proclamation. The scarlet hue symbolizes ingenuity and resilience while in bondage. It’s been three years since Juneteenth became a national holiday, and people are carving out their own traditions.
The daughter of Congolese parents who grew up in Paris, Karen Tshimanga, 37, of Harlem, started celebrating Juneteenth in 2020, after the George Floyd protests.
She honors the holiday in a number of ways: eating, dancing, laughing, volunteering. And when it comes to food, she celebrates with friends at a potluck, the table set with food from different parts of the world.
“We’re lucky to have some of the best West African food, so I like to use the time to get back to my roots,” she said, by eating dibi (Senegalese grilled lamb), attiéké (a slightly sour cassava couscous) or a good meat stew over rice.
The menu below isn’t labor-intensive or intimidating, even if you’re not normally the host. Light, bright, fresh and joyous, the menu here feels like a celebration, and it’s all made with the goal of feeding a group of loved ones: a strawberry ginger limeade, garlicky chicken sandwiches topped with a crunchy slaw, a deeply satisfying shrimp jambalaya, crisp okra made for sharing and tossed with a sweet honey-based sauce, all capped off with bright-red strawberry pretzel bars.
Make a few of the dishes or make them all, just make it yours.
Strawberry-Ginger Limeade
Strawberry-ginger limeade. Red drinks are central to Juneteenth, as the color red represents the blood shed by enslaved people. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)
By Millie Peartree
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Red drinks are central to Juneteenth, as the color red represents the blood shed by enslaved people. Strawberry soda is commonly served, but this punch builds on that tradition, adding honey for its sweet distinct flavor, lime juice and mint for freshness, and ginger for a fiery warmth. And it’s a great way to use up slightly overripe strawberries. (It’s better to use overripe berries, since underripe ones can have bitter notes.) Serve over ice with a twist of lime for an extra burst of flavor.
Yield: 8 servings
Total time: 15 minutes
Ingredients
1 tablespoon zest and 1 1/2 cups juice from 12 to 14 large limes, plus 1 for garnishing
3/4 cup honey
1 (3-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped
1 cup mint leaves picked from 1 bunch
1 pint strawberries, hulled and quartered
Ice, for serving
Preparation
1. In a large pitcher, combine lime juice, honey and 4 cups water.
2. To a blender or food processor, add ginger, 1/2 the mint leaves, all the zest and 1/2 cup water, and blend until smooth. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain the mixture into the pitcher, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible.
3. In the same blender or food processor (no need to clean), add strawberries and 1/2 cup water. Blend until smooth and strain into the pitcher. Stir and chill until ready to serve.
4. To serve, taste for sweetness and adjust, if needed. Muddle remaining mint leaves in glasses, add ice and pour limeade over. Garnish with slices of lime.
Garlicky Chicken Sandwiches With Red Cabbage Slaw
Garlicky chicken sandwiches with red cabbage slaw. Two heads of garlic sautéed in extra-virgin olive oil set the stage for these sandwiches, where tender chicken thighs are heavily seasoned, then pan-seared in garlic oil until a golden dark brown. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)
By Millie Peartree
Two heads of garlic sautéed in extra-virgin olive oil set the stage for these sandwiches, where tender chicken thighs are heavily seasoned, then pan-seared in garlic oil until dark golden brown. A red-cabbage slaw nestled above and below the chicken adds crunch, and its vinegar (not mayo) base means you don’t have to worry if it sits outside for too long. But your guests will have eaten these up long before then.
Yield: 8 sandwiches
Total time: 55 minutes
Ingredients
For the Slaw:
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 1/4 teaspoons celery salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 small red cabbage, shredded on a box grater (3 to 4 cups)
2 large carrots, grated (about 1 cup)
For the Sandwiches:
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne, plus more to taste
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 2 pounds)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
20 garlic cloves
1/2 lemon
8 potato rolls
Preparation
1. Make the slaw: Add oil, vinegar, honey, mustard, celery salt and pepper to a Mason jar and shake until combined. (Alternatively, briskly whisk together in a bowl.)
2. Add cabbage and carrots to a bowl big enough to toss them in. Pour dressing over vegetables and toss until well coated. (You should have about 4 cups of slaw.) Cover and chill for at least 1 hour.
3. Prepare the sandwiches: Mix together the salt, garlic powder, paprika, pepper, onion powder and cayenne in a small bowl, and use the mix to season chicken liberally on all sides.
4. To a large skillet over medium, add the oil. When hot, add garlic and cook cloves on both sides, taking care not to burn them, 3 to 5 minutes total. Transfer garlic to a small bowl.
5. Add chicken to the garlicky oil, then set a heavy pot on top to press the thighs flat. Sear for 8 minutes on one side, working in batches, if necessary, to prevent crowding.
6. Remove the pot, flip the chicken (returning all chicken to the skillet if you seared in batches) and insert garlic under the unseared side of each thigh. Squeeze lemon over the chicken and add 1/4 cup water. Cover skillet with aluminum foil and cook until garlic is smashable, 15 minutes. As the chicken cooks, heat oven to 375 degrees.
7. When garlic is smashable and chicken is cooked through, transfer the garlic back to the small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon chicken juices from the skillet, and smash the cloves into a paste, adding more chicken juices if necessary.
8. Toast the rolls in the oven until golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Spread both sides of each roll with a thin coating of smashed garlic. Top the bottom halves with slaw, then chicken and then more slaw. Finish with the top bun. Serve immediately.
Roasted Shrimp Jambalaya
Roasted shrimp jambalaya. A savory rice dish with fuzzy origins, a strong Louisiana history and a number of influences, shrimp jambalaya is ultimate comfort. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)
By Millie Peartree
A savory rice dish with fuzzy origins, a strong Louisiana history and a number of influences (African, Spanish and French, to name a few), shrimp jambalaya is the ultimate comfort. Here, both rice and shrimp are cooked in the oven separately, not the stovetop, for a more hands-off approach. It’s a meal on its own but also wonderful as part of a spread.
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
Total time: 1 hour 5 minutes
Ingredients
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
1 (12- to 14-ounce) package smoked sausage (kielbasa or andouille), cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
1/2 cup chopped red onion
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper
Coarse kosher salt (such as Morton’s) and black pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups long-grain rice (such as Carolina Gold), rinsed until water runs clear
1/2 cup crushed tomatoes
1 (14.5-ounce) can chicken stock or 1 3/4 cups water, plus more as needed
4 dashes hot sauce
4 dashes Worcestershire sauce
3 teaspoons Cajun seasoning
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
2 bay leaves
2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
1 teaspoon garlic powder
Parsley leaves and sliced scallions, for garnishing
Preparation
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large Dutch oven over medium, heat oil until wavy, then sear the sausage, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Set on paper towels to drain, leaving any oil in the pot.
2. Drizzle more oil into the pot if needed. Add onion, celery, bell peppers, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Cook until the onion is translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds.
3. Add the rice. Stir and toast for 30 seconds. Add sausage, tomatoes, stock, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning, paprika and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Cover and carefully transfer to the oven and cook for about 30 minutes.
4. While rice is cooking, pat the shrimp dry and place on a rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Season with the remaining 2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning and the garlic powder.
5. Check the rice after about 30 minutes to make sure all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender. (If it’s too dry or not cooked all the way through, incorporate a few tablespoons of water or stock at a time, and cook a little longer.)
6. Slide the sheet pan of shrimp into the oven. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until just pink, firm and cooked through.
7. Check rice for doneness. When ready, fluff with a fork, then mix in shrimp. Garnish with parsley and scallions.
Crispy Okra With Spicy Honey Sauce
Crispy okra with spicy honey sauce. Kwame Onwuachi serves a version of this dish at his acclaimed restaurant Tatiana in New York City. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)
Recipe from Kwame Onwuachi
Adapted by Millie Peartree
Kwame Onwuachi serves a version of this dish at his acclaimed restaurant Tatiana in New York City. He halves and deep-fries his version, but in this adaptation, it’s quartered so every bit is extra crunchy. It’s lightly coated in a vibrant honey sauce bursting with Scotch bonnet chile, ginger and pungent garlic. The flavors are big but not overbearing, letting okra’s beauty shine. Finish with a dusting of mustard powder, if you like, and a squeeze of lemon, to bring this New York small-plate to your dinner table. — Millie Peartree
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
For the Dressing:
1/2 Scotch bonnet chile
1/2 garlic clove
1 (1/2-inch) knob of ginger, peeled and chopped
1 cup honey
For the Okra:
1 (24-ounce) bottle vegetable, canola or peanut oil, for frying
2 pounds fresh okra, quartered lengthwise
Coarse kosher salt (such as Morton’s) or flaky sea salt
Mustard powder (optional)
1 lemon, halved (optional)
Preparation
1. Place the chile, garlic, ginger and honey in a blender, and blend until smooth. (Dressing will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for 1 week.)
2. In a heavy pot, heat oil to 375 degrees. Place a thick layer of paper towels nearby on a plate or baking sheet. Working in 4 batches to avoid crowding, fry okra until crisp, about 5 to 7 minutes for each batch. Make sure to bring the oil back to temperature between batches. Seeds will swell, and okra will be deeply colored at edges. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt.
3. In a serving bowl, toss okra with 1 tablespoon dressing. Taste and add more salt and dressing as needed. Finish with a dusting of mustard powder and a squeeze of lemon if desired.
Strawberry Pretzel Bars
Strawberry pretzel bars. Old-fashioned strawberry pretzel salad, topped with gelatin, gets a modern makeover. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)
By Millie Peartree
Old-fashioned strawberry pretzel salad, topped with gelatin, gets a modern makeover. Here, pretzels are tossed with graham cracker crumbs, then topped with a light cream-cheese mixture and finished off with strawberry jam and fresh strawberries, for a delicate sweetness. Cut the bars into bite-size pieces or bigger slabs. Either way, this old-new dish is sure to be a favorite.
Yield: 12 bars
Total time: 45 minutes
Ingredients
For the Crust:
1 cup/120 grams finely crushed pretzels, plus more for garnishing
1 cup/115 grams finely crushed graham crackers (about 7), plus more for garnishing
3/4 cup/170 grams unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
For the Filling:
1 cup/240 milliliters heavy cream
1 cup/123 grams powdered sugar
1 (8-ounce/226-gram) package cream cheese, softened
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the Topping:
1 cup strawberry jam, stirred to loosen
1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
Preparation
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Make the crust: In a medium bowl, mix pretzels, graham crackers, butter, sugar and cinnamon. Press mixture into the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Bake until set, 13 to 15 minutes. Cool on a rack. Wipe out the bowl to use for the filling.
3. Make the filling: Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip heavy cream and 1/2 cup powdered sugar to stiff peaks. Transfer whipped cream to the wiped bowl. To the stand mixer (no need to wash the bowl), add the cream cheese, the remaining 1/2 cup powdered sugar and the vanilla extract. Mix on medium speed until smooth. Gently fold the whipped cream into the cream cheese mixture. Spread evenly over the cooled crust.
4. Top the bars: Spoon dollops of jam over the filling and carefully swirl into the whipped cream. Top with sliced strawberries. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours or until firm. To serve, cut into 12 equal pieces and sprinkle with crushed pretzels and graham crackers.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.