A new fishmonger brings ‘lazy man’s cioppino’ to Rockridge Market Hall

An upscale fishmonger has opened in Oakland’s Rockridge Market Hall, serving raw oysters, poke and something called Lazy Man’s Cioppino.

Billingsgate Seafood debuted in late February in the old spot of Hapuku Fish Shop, which departed in January after more than 20 years in business. It is run by Adrian Hoffman and Ismael Macias, chefs and founders of San Francisco’s Four Star Seafood & Provisions, a boutique wholesaler that focuses on local and sustainable catch. (Ismael’s brother, Esteban Macias, is also involved.)

This is the second location of Billingsgate, with the flagship market and cafe located in San Francisco’s Noe Valley.

A variety of whole fish were nestled in ice on a recent visit, including Petrale sole, branzino, black sea bass, turbot and red snapper ($10-$17 per pound). There were meaty head-on shrimp, local squid, Dungeness and King crab and trays of wild-caught sea urchin.

Also on ice are oysters from the West and East Coast, plus littleneck clams, that diners can get served raw-bar style. There’s a small list of crudos and ceviche — right now, wild scallops with yuzu kosho and lemon ($19) or hamachi with hearts of palm and olive oil ($18) — and a couple of Spanish-influenced dishes like octopus carpaccio ($17) and tomato toast with white anchovies and Iberico ham ($19).

Seafood salads come with grilled brioche or butter lettuce and can include Oregon Bay shrimp with avocado and pickled veggies, Maine lobster with potato chips and Dungeness crab with watercress and grapefruit ($16-$29).  There’s also a “Billingsgate poke” with a customizable choice of sushi-grade fish served on sushi rice or fresh greens.

Perhaps the most intriguing dish on offer is the Lazy Man’s Cioppino. It’s a “San Francisco classic — made to eat,” states the menu, with crab meat, mussels, clams, shrimp, squid and octopus in a red wine-fennel-tomato broth served with garlic bread ($26). In other words, it’s the whole ocean in a bowl.

Details: Open 9 a.m.-7 p.m. daily at 5655 College Ave., Oakland; 510-250-6007 and instagram.com/billingsgatesf