Big waves slam Southern California beaches, more massive surf on the way

Getting a new surfboard for Christmas?

This will not be the week to hit the waves to learn to surf – and even experienced surfers should use extreme caution in the water.

Big waves are slamming the Southern California coast this week, with massive surf showing up on Sunday, Dec. 22, and strong swells continuing through the week.

“It’s going to be a better time to wait a few days after Christmas to bring your new board down,” Seal Beach Marine Safety Lt. Nick Bolin said. “This is not the week to come down and test out the surf. It’s very large, powerful and dangerous.”

The National Weather Service put out a high surf warning, as well as flood warnings for low-lying coastal areas and small craft advisories, that extend through at least the early hours of Christmas morning.

Waves were in the 8- to 10-foot range on Sunday at some surf spots, including Seal Beach where two major rescues were needed, the first a surfer who lost his board in the big waves, the other a swimmer who struggled in the surf just before sunset, Bolin said.

“It’s a good reminder for people to stay out of the water when it’s big, you have to be an expert to be in this size surf. Even if you’re on shore, be away from the breaking waves,” Seal Beach Marine Safety Chief Joe Bailey added.

A bit of water from the big surf came over the sand berm built up on the beach, reaching the boardwalk, but no major flooding was reported, which the area has experienced in past years, Bailey said.

The surf eased a bit Monday, to the 5- to-7 foot range, but was expected to build overnight into Tuesday for similar conditions to Sunday’s swell. Then it will drop slightly, but still be big and hazardous through Christmas and into the weekend, Bolin said.

Bolin said big waves rolled into platform Esther on Sunday. It is a novelty wave that typically only shows up every three to four years, the spot needing just the right swell direction and long-period intervals and low-tide levels to generate something to surf.

The last time the mutant wave broke with sizable surf was last January. 

“It’s a novelty to be out there and be able to surf platform Esther. It’s expert only and it’s a mile and a half offshore, and that’s a dangerous place to be,” Bolin said. “It’s definitely a sight to see, you can see it from the beach and pier.”

Rocky McKinnon, who runs Bold As Love Outrigger Surf Canoe in Huntington Beach, set out with his vessel and three other paddlers to charge the wave in the outrigger.

“This crazy dream of mine would’ve never came to fruition if it wasn’t for all involved that made this memorable day a reality,” he wrote on social media.

Los Angeles County lifeguards shared hazards on social media: dangerous conditions for boaters near shore and at exposed harbor entrances, large breaking waves that may overtop sea walls and overturn boats, high surf that could create minor coastal flooding, increased beach erosion and sea water reaching beach paths and parking lots.

“Lifeguards urge beachgoers, surfers and boaters to use caution during this swell. Know your limits and check in with a lifeguard before entering the water,” officials warned.

The National Weather Service also warns of rip currents that can pull swimmers and surfers out to sea and large breaking waves that can cause injury and wash people off the beaches and rocks, as well as capsize small boats near shore.

“Inexperienced swimmers should remain out of the water due to dangerous surf conditions. It is extremely dangerous to fish or observe waves from exposed coastal structures or rocks during high surf conditions,” NWS warned. “Very large waves can suddenly sweep across previously dry areas. Swimming or surfing in these waves may be dangerous for anyone due to the powerful waves and strong rip currents.”

Basically, it’s best to stay on dry land.

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