Wild horses graze on the banks of Washoe Lake, Nevada, outside Carson City — their dark manes glistening in the cloudless sky.
As a visitor, you might see three or four of these magnificent animals in a pack — maybe even more if the herd has a strong stallion. When they gallop across the dusty landscape, it’s enough to make your heart pound. The romance of the American West is on display every day in and around Carson City. From the lonesome whistle of the V&T Railway to remnants of the old silver mines that operated there, history tells a story at every turn.
Just a half-hour south of Reno, this is not the glitzy gambling part of Nevada that gets so much attention. This is the Old West Nevada that calls you outdoors to play in the high desert and forests, on the trails and in the rivers, lakes and waterfalls. Start by exploring Carson City’s Neoclassical Italianate-style state capitol, built in the late 1860s with free tours each Saturday.
On the second floor of the capitol is Battle Born Hall — a museum open on weekdays that brings Nevada’s characters and history to life. The most prominent character has to be Kit Carson, a soldier and frontiersman whose escapades were the fodder of dime store novels and Saturday matinees.
Appropriately, Carson City has a Kit Carson Trail through the city’s historic district. The 2.5-mile walking and driving tour takes you past 48 landmarks — including gorgeous Victorian homes from the 1800s. The free map and audio guide tell stories of the historical sites, which are brought to life on the seasonal Carson City Ghost Walk tours.
Trains are also a big attraction in Carson City, where rail fans can take the 24-mile round trip from Carson City to Virginia City. The 100-year-old steam train climbs 1,500 feet above the valley floor as it chugs through tunnels and past Comstock mines on its way to one of the West’s best-preserved towns, Virginia City.
You’ll likely see wild horses on this trip too. The V&T Railway was built in the 1870s and runs from May to October, with a leisurely stop in Virginia City for lunch (vtrailway.com). A ticket on this historic train includes live narration from a conductor/historian who will regale you with stories about the line — once the world’s most profitable from all the gold, ore and timber it hauled.
Speaking of trains, a must-see is the Nevada State Railroad Museum in Carson City. You might even recognize some of the 70 train cars housed there, since several starred in western films like “Last Train from Gun Hill.” You can also take a steam train ride around the museum grounds every weekend from May through September (with holiday rides in October and December).
A poignant part of this region’s history is the federal government’s past effort to assimilate Native American children in boarding schools. The Stewart Indian School operated from 1890 to 1980, teaching students English along with job skills. The campus — which has a free smartphone audio tour — includes 65 stone buildings built by Hopi stonemasons and boarding school students on 110 acres. There is also a Great Basin Native art gallery, a Cultural Center and Museum and a storytelling room at the site.
Reno: At the beginning of this column, I mentioned Reno. Adding time on your trip to stay at Reno’s premier four diamond hotel, the Peppermill Resort, Spa & Casino, is worthwhile just to pamper yourself in the Romanesque luxury of their 33,000-square-foot spa and salon with its own caldarium.
The Peppermill’s dining choices rival anything you’ll find in Las Vegas, with 10 restaurants and cafes including Reno’s award-winning Bimini Steakhouse. Like something out of the TV show “Mad Men,” Bimini is elegant and timeless, serving classics like Steakhouse Diane — twin petite beef tenderloin filets prepared tableside with brandy, shiitake mushrooms and Dijon mustard demi-glaze.
Other favorites are Maine Lobster Whipped Potatoes and tableside flambés of Bananas Foster, Cherries Jubilee and Strawberries Romanoff. Nearby, the Atlantis Resort has more elevated options for fine dining and restorative spa treatments — all in a glitzy, resort setting.
As you’re planning weekend getaways for summer, fall and beyond, remember to look beyond Lake Tahoe to the Reno and Carson City areas. The American West never looked so good.
Ginny Prior can be reached at ginnyprior@hotmail.com and followed on X (formerly Twitter), Instagram, Facebook and at ginnyprior.com.
If you go
Find out about trip-planning tips online and even a Hallmark-esque movie set in town at visitcarsoncity.com, and learn more about Reno tourism at visitrenotahoe.com.