Dining at a hotel restaurant used to be a glamorous experience. But imagining a hotel restaurant today may conjure up images of an empty dining room with a few patrons sipping cocktails at an eerily quiet bar.
That said, the tides seem to be turning again as hospitality brands increasingly partner with award-winning chefs and concepts.
A cicchetti board from Tavernetta Vail. (Provided by Frasca Hospitality Group)
Consider The Thompson Denver, which enlisted celebrity chef Ludo Lefebvre to create and lead its on-site eatery, Chez Maggy, when it opened in 2022; or WYLD inside of The Ritz Carlton in Avon, which has been recommended by the Michelin guide two years in a row.
Denver’s overnight visitors spent nearly $1.5 billion on food and beverages in 2023, according to data from Visit Denver, so it makes sense that hotel operators would want to incentivize guests to spend some of that money on property.
“Hotel operators are starting to see restaurants as not just an amenity but as a way to drive traffic, and it’s important that these restaurants stand on their own as well,” Ian Wortham, executive chef for Pasque and Stellar Jay at the recently opened Populus hotel, said.
In downtown Denver, the Limelight Hotel’s decision to replace Citizen Rail with Ajax Downtown, which debuted this summer, exemplifies this trend. The restaurant’s sister concept, Ajax Tavern, is the famed après ski destination operating inside Aspen’s renowned Little Nell hotel since 1989.
Aspen Hospitality, which owns The Little Nell and Limelight brands, purchased the former Kimpton property and its adjoining Citizen Rail restaurant in 2023. With the hotel’s recent food and beverage refresh, it appears the group is trying to recreate some of that Little Nell magic in Denver.
“The biggest difference from our Aspen location is the focus on specialty equipment, especially the live fire, which is really the backbone of this restaurant. And our in-house dry-aging program for duck, beef and pork allows us to use those products at their peak,” said Ajax Downtown executive chef Jared Becker, who was also the executive chef for Citizen Rail.
The short rib cannelloni at Ajax Downtown. (Provided by Ajax)
While Becker maintained his position through the property’s transition, Citizen Rail’s original executive chef, Christian Graves, stayed with Kimpton. Over the summer, he launched two concepts at the new Kimpton Claret Hotel near the Denver Tech Center: Halo Rooftop Bar and Saverina, an “Italian-inspired” restaurant that has already been given an OpenTable Diners’ Choice award. Saverina’s handmade pastas are especially impressive; the Mezza Rigatoni Rigati with Spanish octopus bolognese topped with chili crunch is a standout.
Beyond the Front Range, The Four Seasons Vail is also trying its luck with a Michelin-recognized brand. Bib Gourmand recipient Tavernetta is set to open inside the resort’s former Flame restaurant space this December, marking it the first hotel partnership for the Italian eatery’s parent company, Frasca Hospitality Group.
Bobby Stuckey, one of Frasca’s founders and arguably the human embodiment of hospitality, explained why he feels the collaboration makes sense. “I’ve been very selective with our partnerships; we’ve done very few. A lot of people say they’re committed to service, but great hospitality takes dedication and hard work. (The Four Seasons) was completely in lockstep with us on that.”
“Opening a restaurant, whether freestanding or in a hotel, is really hard,” says Bobby Stuckey, one of the founders of Frasca. (Provided by Frasca Hospitality Group)
Notably, Food Network star Tyler Florence held a six-month residency at The Four Seasons Vail from the winter of 2022 to spring of 2023 with his concept, Miller & Lux. At the time, he told The Denver Post he’d consider remaining at the hotel permanently if it proved successful. It’s unclear why he didn’t stay, but perhaps Tavernetta will have more luck.
“In terms of hotels partnering with strong food and beverage companies, that’s been happening for a while, though it’s newer for Denver. For example, about 15 years ago, when Daniel Humm and Will Guidara opened the NoMad in New York, I was obsessed with staying there just to eat in the hotel restaurant,” Stuckey recalled.
He also emphasized that restaurant-hotel partnerships that aren’t aligned on brand identity and operational goals can be a recipe for disaster.
“Just because you work with a restaurant company doesn’t mean you automatically absorb its DNA. It’s not something that happens by osmosis; delivering it requires a huge financial and training commitment.”
Stuckey is right: These partnerships don’t always go off without a hitch. Stellar Jay inside the Populus, for example, recently debuted to a shaky start. The rooftop concept helmed by chef Wortham (who, coincidentally, used to be Tavernetta’s executive chef) received some criticism from critics.
During a dinner at Pasque, the Populus’ ground-floor restaurant, the team said they’re confident they’ll be able to iron out any opening-day kinks they experienced.
Pork Belly at the Halo Rooftop Bar in the Kimpton Claret Hotel. (Provided by Halo)
“Opening a restaurant, whether freestanding or in a hotel, is really hard,” Stuckey said. “You need to put the right people in place for the months leading up to the opening, and then once it’s up and running. It’s almost like two different sports – some people are really great at opening places, and some are really good at running them.”
By and large, this new generation of restaurants seems to have their head in the game, and they’re helping Colorado’s hotel dining scene shed its reputation as the stepchild of the culinary world.