It began as Aeris and was inspired by a visit to Sicily, where Rhys owner Kevin Harvey fell in love with Cariccante, a flowery yet lean white that thrives in the volcanic ash of Mount Etna. He likened it in complexity to a white Burgundy.
Similarly, he was taken by Nerello Mascalese, a popular medium-body, high-acid Sicilian red. Both have been grown in Sicily for millennia.
Soon, Harvey was importing and planting the first of these varieties in the U.S., on a special spot 2,000 feet up on Sonoma Mountain. Beginning in 2013, the Rhys team also planted Nebbiolo and Barbera there and for a time produced a red blend under the Aeris label. But the name changed in 2021 to the place where these vines are grown in the Alberello tradition—that’s Italian for “small trees.”
The vineyard is organically and mostly dry-farmed, and director of winemaking Jeff Brinkman uses large casks and native yeasts to preserve the unique personalities of these varieties. With the 2021 release of Centennial Mountain, they are getting their arms around these vines in their new home. This is another side of Los Gatos-based Rhys that’s worth exploring.Aromatically, the 2021 Centennial Mountain Carricante is instantly captivating. Salty and tangy on the palate, it’s meant to complement seafood with lots of lemon and capers.
The 2021 Centennial Mountain Nerello Mascalese is truly a food wine thanks to its brazen acidity. No slouch in the acid and tannin departments is the bold 2021 Centennial Mountain Nebbiolo. Still in its youth, this assertive, meaty wine reveals many layers of interest.
The Alameda Wine Competition has four parts: one that judges wines made strictly from Alameda County fruit, a second that welcomes blends from all over California, a third that focuses on exclusively sauvignon blanc and a fourth that does the same for zinfandel. It’s a great gathering of wines and judges at the Pleasanton Fairgrounds, overseen by wine competition coordinator Patty Cuellar of the Alameda County Fair and Bill Traverso, chairman of the Alameda Commercial Wine Competition.
Once more, winemaker Brent Amos of Livermore’s Las Positas Winery won Best of Show White with the 2024 Las Positas Vineyards Estate Reserve Verdelho. Best of Show Rosé went to the Del Valle Winery 2024 Grenache Rosé, made by Livermore winemaker Aaron Luna.
Best of Show Red went to Concannon for their 2022 Concannon Reserve Malbec, made by Livermore winemaker Brett Fiske. Concannon also won Best of Show Red in the Best of the Blends competition for their Concannon 2022 Reserve Assemblage Red, Livermore Valley. Fiske capped off a stunning triple play by also winning the Sauvignon Summit for the Concannon 2024 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Livermore. Best of Show Zinfandel went to Macchia’s 2023 “Devious” Primitivo, California.
Sarah Green (Donelan, FEL) became Neely’s winemaker in August 2024, just in time to pick grapes for her first harvest at the Portola Valley winery. Three of the wines she made for harvest 2024 were recently released and are well worth seeking out. The 2024 Neely Grüner Veltliner, Block Verde, is racy yet satisfying, with a perfect mix of green apple, stone fruit and lime.
Fermented in cool steel and aged for five months, the estery 2024 Neely Leona Chardonnay, Sausal Block, is from 6-year-old Wente clone vines. Perfumey and citrusy, it is surprisingly sophisticated on the palate. The 2024 Neely Lucy’s Rosé of Pinot Noir is executed brilliantly in the Provence style, meaning very little skin contact for a rosé you can drink all day, if you have the right job.