Blackberries are such jovial fruit, their tiny juice sacs pleading for pearly whites to burst them into juice. The inky nectar is a seductive blend of deep sweet-tart flavors, the flesh that encases it a counterpoint of chew.
Their vibrant flavors lend excitement to yogurt, mixed green salads or cooked grains, as well as game, pork and grilled tofu. They are a welcome addition to cheese platters, smoothies, and fruit salads. Cocktails, too.
The taste and textures are beguiling, but keep in mind that these berries have very impressive nutritional value. Blackberries are concentrated sources of the phytochemical ellagic acid, which acts as a powerful antioxidant. Quercetin, one of the main antioxidant compounds in berries and especially prevalent in blackberries, has been shown to protect against cancers. It also works best in combination with vitamin C, and blackberries coincidentally are higher in vitamin C than many other fruits.
When buying them, look for berries that are fragrant without any mold or mushiness. A dark black hue is best because purple or dark red may be a sign that they were not ripe when harvested (they don’t ripen once plucked from the vine).
If packaged in a container, look at the pad underneath the berries; if it looks saturated with dark juice, choose another container. Or if berries stick together when container is tilted, it could be a sign that there is mold and deterioration. Store unwashed berries in single layer in shallow container; cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Black and Blue Berry Pie with Cookie-Like Crumb Topping
This pie is crazy delicious. The formula is adapted from “Dappled” by Nicole Rucker (Penguin Random House). The topping elevates the blackberry-blueberry dish, providing oat cookie-like crunch and flavor. I’ve made the pie many times and have found that sometimes the berries produce a teaspoon or two of juices that rest in the pie pan when cooled wedges of pie are removed. I spoon up the juice and lightly drizzle it over the whipped cream that accompanies each serving.
Cook’s notes: To prepare pie crust, place 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process 30 seconds. Add 1/2 cup (1 stick) cold butter that has been cut into 8 pieces. Pulse until mixture is the consistency of a coarse meal. With the motor running, add 1/4 cup ice water (without ice) in a the thin stream. Continue to process just until mixture starts to form a ball; do not over-process. Roll out on a lightly floured surface. Transfer to 9- to 9 1/2-inch pie pan. Trim to leave a 1 1/2-inch overhang of dough. Fold the extra dough under itself and pinch to create a ridge next to the edge of the pan. Crimp the dough (keeping a high ridge) and place it in freezer for 20 minutes or until very cold.
Yield: One 9 1/2-inch pie, about 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
One 9- to 9 1/2- pie crust; see cook’s notes
Topping:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup old-fashioned oats
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 stick unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons whole milk
Filling:
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 3/4 cups fresh blueberries
3 cups fresh blackberries
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Generous pinch kosher salt
Garnish: whipped cream (2 cups heavy whipping cream beaten with 2 tablespoons powdered sugar)
DIRECTIONS
1. Prepare pie crust and place it in freezer (see cook’s notes).
2. Prepare topping: In a medium bowl, combine flour, oats, brown sugar, and salt. Combine melted butter and milk in a handled measuring cup; stir to combine. Pour butter mixture into flour mixture and stir to combine well (it will be a loose mixture — chilling makes it come together and become firm). Squeeze a few handfuls of the mixture into large clumps. Refrigerate until ready to use.
3. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 400 degrees. Place a parchment-lined baking sheet on the lower rack to catch any juices that escape from the pie as it bakes.
4. Prepare filling: in a large bowl, combine flour, berries, sugar, juice and salt. Gently toss (I use a silicone spatula for this). Squeeze just one handful of berries to break them open, and stir the smashed fruit into the mix. Transfer the filling to the chilled crust (some of the sugar mixture may stay separate – be sure to add that too). Top the pie with the crumb topping mixture, breaking apart large clumps into chunks of various smallish sizes. Place the pie on the middle rack and reduce temperature to 375 degrees. Bake until crust is a deep golden brown and the juices from the pie are bubbling, 60 to 70 minutes. Place on cooling rack. Cool for at least 2 hours. Pie should be room temperature for serving.
5. Cut pie into generous wedges and serve with sweetened whipped cream.
Source: Adapted from “Dappled” by Nicole Rucker (Penguin Random House)
Mixed Green Salad with Blackberries, Candied Nuts and Feta
I love the combination of blackberries, candied nuts, and feta cheese in this delicious salad. If you’re not a feta cheese fan, substitute crumbled blue cheese for the feta. Or use grated smoked Gouda or grated Manchego cheese.
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
10 ounces mixed baby greens
2 to 3 cups fresh blackberries
5 ounces crumbled feta
1 cup candied walnuts or pecans, such as Emerald Glazed Walnuts
Freshly ground black pepper
Optional garnish: halved orange slices
DIRECTIONS
1. Prepare vinaigrette: Whisk vinegar, orange juice, and salt in small bowl or glass measuring cup with a handle. Add oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Stir in basil. Set aside.
2. Put mixed baby greens, blackberries, feta, and nuts in a salad bowl. Stir vinaigrette and drizzle on salad. Gently toss. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide between salad plates and if desired, garnish on the side with halved orange slices.
Blackberry Financiers
A financier is a petite French cake that is light, moist and not too sweet. The lovely flavor is derived from the addition of brown butter and almond flour. To make the flour, sliced almonds are ground with all-purpose flour in a food processor. Adding fresh blackberries makes them even more tempting.
Yield: 24 to 28
INGREDIENTS
1/2 cup plus 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup (packed) sliced almonds
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons powdered sugar; additional for dusting
5 large egg whites
2 tablespoons honey
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
About 2 cups fresh blackberries, halved
Optional for serving: sweetened whipped cream or French vanilla ice cream
DIRECTIONS
1. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until browned bits begin to form. Continue to simmer, frequently scraping up browned bits at bottom of pan, until fragrant and dark brown but not burnt, 6 to 7 minutes. Scrape butter and all browned bits into a medium bowl. Let cool for 3 to 4 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, process almonds and flour in a food processor until nuts are finely ground. Transfer to a medium bowl; add 1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons powdered sugar and stir with whisk to combine. Add egg whites; mix until smooth with whisk. Stir in honey.
3. Fold browned butter into batter.
4. Arrange a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375 degrees. Coat mini muffin cups with nonstick spray. Pour 1 generous tablespoon batter into each prepared muffin cup. (To make this easier I use a 1-tablespoon ice-cream scoop that I fill to almost overflowing.) Top with 2 to 4 blackberry halves, bumpy side up. Bake until cakes are golden brown and just cooked through, 15 to 16 minutes. Cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pan. Serve warm or at room temperature. Dust cooled cakes with powdered sugar just before serving. If desired, accompany with sweetened whipped cream or French vanilla ice cream.
Source: Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine
Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.