Two men — one younger, one older — are sitting quietly under a light gray awning, cleaning dozens of artichokes. Clear bags between their legs are slowly filling with the tough, green and purple outer leaves.
I’m benefitting from their hard work: A fried artichoke sits on the plate in front of me (next to an Aperol Spritz, naturally). It’s shaped almost like a flattened dahlia, with its charred, golden-brown edges crisp and curling. It’s early May and nearing the end of artichoke, or carciofi as they’re called in Italian, season.
At Il Giardino Romano restaurant, I’ve stumbled across one of Rome’s most traditional dishes: carciofi alla giudia, or Jewish-style artichokes, so called because they were first served by Italian Jews — a community that was forcibly relocated to a ghetto near the River Tiber in the mid-1500s.
It’s the same area I’m sitting in now.
Like much of Rome, the neighborhood is a juxtaposition of time periods. From the restaurant, one can look at the ruins of Portico d’Ottavia, which were once a public meeting space before evolving into a fish market and a church. A 10-minute walk takes you to the imposing Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, with its towering columns and grandiose sculptures.
Rome does this. It surprises you. One minute, you’re shopping for a leather bag, the next, you round a corner and are suddenly confronted with Trajan’s Forum, the last of the Imperial forums to be constructed in ancient Rome.
These spontaneous encounters are part of the beauty of the Eternal City, a place that’s easier than ever for Denverites to visit: In May, United Airlines launched a nonstop flight between Denver International Airport and Rome. The airport’s first direct route to Italy is offered daily between May 1 and September 24. “These are our peak travel months,” said Jonna McGrath, United’s vice president of airport operations in Denver. “There’s always a chance it goes year-round. It depends on what the demand is.” (Full disclosure: United hosted my flight.)
Rome is known to be a relatively safe city (though tourists should be careful about pickpockets around popular sites) and easy to get around. In other words, it’s an ideal destination for solo female travelers like me, one of the fastest-growing travel segments.
The travel company Virtuoso reported that “wander women” make up 71% of solo travelers, while Hilton’s 2025 trends report found that close to half of respondents said they often travel by themselves (a group the hotel chain refers to as “MeMooners”). The solo travel market is anticipated to grow by 9.1% between 2023 and 2030.
As the most populated city in Italy and one of the largest, Rome is known for its “beautiful chaos.” The streets buzz with people and cars and motorbikes and buses. There are endless neighborhoods, restaurants and sites to explore. Lone travelers can benefit from having at least one destination in mind — a venue that can serve as a launching point before allowing curiosity, and Rome’s maze of streets and alleyways, to take the lead.
Start, for instance, with a dose a fresh air following your overnight flight.
Villa Borghese is considered the city’s “green lung” and is situated close to the luxurious InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace hotel. The 197-acre park and its gardens were first developed in 1606. (The Galleria Borghese houses one of the city’s most esteemed art collections; reserve tickets well in advance of your visit.) From there, take a leisurely, mile-long stroll to some of the key tourist attractions: the Spanish Steps, which burst in hues of pink and white when azaleas decorate them in the spring; the Trevi Fountain (visit early in the morning to avoid the lengthy line of people waiting to toss a coin in the turquoise water); and the Pantheon.
Save the Colosseum, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and the Roman Forum for another day, when you take ample time to explore the blocks-long complex. (It’s worth booking guided tickets in advance to get the most out of the experience.) A visit in late afternoon offers a view unlike any other: As golden hour approaches, the Colosseum is set ablaze with the last of the sunlight, as if the ball of fire has been purposefully hung to light this one singular feature.
Reward yourself — and give your feet a break — at Fatamorgana’s Monti location, where dozens of gelato flavors await. Or stop at whichever trattoria, enoteca (wine bars) or bar (where you’ll also find coffee) appeals as you walk. Rome is particularly well-known for its pizza; if an option topped with anchovies and zucchini blossoms (fiori di zucca) is available, order it. The city also specializes in two kinds of pasta, carbonara and Amatriciana.
There are enough crowded tourist locales to fill an entire visit to Rome, but it’s worth going off the beaten path, too. A short bus ride from the historic center takes you to Trastevere, a residential neighborhood of cobblestone streets and local restaurants that’s considered by some to be the true heart of Rome.
Walking 20 minutes uphill from the bustling Piazza di Santa Maria takes you to Gianicolo Hill (also known as Janiculum Hill). The overlook, sometimes considered Rome’s eighth hill, is the site of a significant battle in the fight for Italy’s unification back in 1849 (hence the many sculptures that line the area, including a massive bronze monument to one of the country’s forefathers, Giuseppe Garibaldi, at the top), but it’s as well-loved for the views it affords over the Eternal City.
If you’re lucky, a busker will be playing music, inviting a few moments of calm amid the chaos.