Taste-Off: Supermarket apple pies you should — and shouldn’t — bring to holiday meals

Yay for all those who plan to bake an apple pie for Thanksgiving! That’s exactly the right move. Not you? No problem. It’s apple pie season, and pies can be found everywhere. The trick is to find one that makes people smile.

Those who have access to pies made at an apple farm or a great bakery should head there first, as they are likely to use great ingredients and employ the right techniques. Thankfully, store bakeries are also stacked with apple pies — and some of them are perfectly luscious.

A few things to know about supermarket pies: Unlike homemade crust that relies on the careful incorporation of butter and flour, most supermarket crusts are made with oil, which is fully blended with the flour. The result is a thick, grainy crust that, while far less pleasing than a butter crust, is shelf-stable, as it remains intact as it absorbs the moisture of the apple filling. The crust also freezes well, as most of the pies in supermarket bakeries are merely defrosted and placed out for sale.

A great apple pie has a thin, tender, flavorful crust and is filled with loads of evenly sliced apples tossed with just the right amount of sugar and spice that are perfectly cooked. The best are made with tart, juicy apples that bake into a luxurious, somewhat saucy filling. Bad apple pie has such thick layers of pasty crust that it is hard to find the apples. The worst are filled with big hunks of dry, under-baked, rubbery apples.

Here are details on mouth-watering apple pies that are worthy of a holiday feast, and the pasty pies filled with spongy chunks of dry apple that are hard to chew. Nutrition info refers to 113 grams, about 4 ounces, or a very small slice of pie.

Whole Foods Apple Pie

This golden brown pie is a baking triumph that’s guaranteed to impress even the most accomplished bakers. It delivers layers fresh, tender apples inside a buttery, crispy crust that is so delicious that it’s hard to stop eating. 297 calories, 13 grams fat, 194 milligrams sodium, 21 grams sugar, 1 grams protein. $13.99 for 30 ounces at Whole Foods. (4 stars)

Costco Apple Pie

Apple pie doesn’t get a whole lot better — nor bigger — than this nearly 5-pound pie. It cuts into neat slices and has lots of fresh apple slices swimming in sweet, cinnamon-spiked sauce. The soft, oil-based crust is thinner than most, and has a nice crunch on top thanks to a sprinkling of sugar. 283 calories, 14 grams fat, 302 milligrams sodium, 19 grams sugar, 2 grams protein. $12.99 for 4 pounds, 11 ounces. (3 1/2 stars)

Trader Joe’s Apple Pie Crumble

Tart apples tossed with vanilla and sugar are the highlight of this buttery, crumble-topped pie. It has a thin bottom crust and a minimally sweet, oat-based topping. The only flaw is that the topping is in desperate need of toasting. 296 calories, 12 grams fat, 215 milligrams sodium, 24 grams sugar, 4 grams protein. $7.99 for 27.16 ounces. (3 stars)

Sprouts Double Crust Apple Pie

Bright, apple-forward filling and just the right amount of sugar make for a tasty, comforting bite. While the dough is grainy, it’s pleasantly fluffy when warm. Note that these pies are baked (from frozen) daily. 250 calories,19 grams fat, 290 milligrams sodium, 22 grams sugar, 2 grams protein. $6 for 1 pound, 8 ounces. (2 1/2 stars)

Safeway Lattice Apple Pie

The pretty lattice top on this pie is a win, but the dough is too thick, and it needs more cinnamon. The generous amount of apple filling is flavorful and saucy, if under-baked. 330 calories, 18 grams fat, 235 milligrams sodium, 19 grams sugar, 3 grams protein. $7.99 for 1/2  at Safeway. (2 stars)

Jessie’s Apple Not Sugar Added

The idea of making a no-sugar pie is terrific, but this super-white, barely baked pie doesn’t quite deliver. It’s far too sweet due to too much Maltitol, it needs much more filling, and it’s sorely in need of another pass through the oven. 280 calories, 17 grams fat, 260 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 2 grams protein. $8.99 for 24 ounces at Raley’s. (1 1/2 stars)

Raley’s Apple Pie

A full 1/2-inch of gluey, salty dough encasing crunchy chunks of nearly flavorless apple makes for a very disappointing dessert. 346 calories, 18 grams fat, 246 milligrams sodium, 21 grams sugar, 3 grams protein. $11.99 for 28 ounces. (1/2 star)

First Street Lattice Top Apple Pie

Yuck. There is nothing delicious about this pie. The crust is so thick and floury that it’s hard to swallow, and the apple chunks are so dry and rubbery that the are difficult to stab with a fork. 330 calories, 17 grams fat, 230 milligrams sodium, 21 grams sugar, 2 grams protein. $6.99 for 24 ounces at Smart & Final. (no stars)

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