Taste-Off: Which Hawaiian rolls are worthy of your Thanksgiving table?

Tired of dried out crusts in the lunchbox? Looking for an easy bread solution for a party? The easiest crowd-pleasing option is to open a pack of Hawaiian rolls.

Pillowy soft, pleasantly sweet and entirely crust-free, they’re not only perfect for a lunchbox sandwich, but a great choice to serve alongside a rich, savory holiday meal.

While many companies make Hawaiian rolls, the most common brand by far is King’s Hawaiian, a company that started making the fluffy, brioche-like rolls in Hilo, Hawaii, in the 1950s. The rolls were such a hit that production expanded to Honolulu, then to Southern California.

Today, the demand for Hawaiian rolls is so huge that a host of companies have stepped into the game. Curious, we rounded up eight brands for a taste. All Hawaiian rolls are light and fluffy, but flavors vary. Some, like King’s, are slightly fruity in flavor and sweet enough to qualify as dessert. Others lean more savory.

Typically made with preservatives, Hawaiian rolls have a long shelf life. That said, when shopping for Hawaiian rolls, be sure to check that the date on the package hasn’t passed. Avoid rolls that look deflated or wrinkled.

Good Hawaiian rolls are golden brown, velvety soft and infused with hints of salt and butter. They’re intentionally sweet, making them a great flavor counterpoint to salty cold-cuts and rich foods — and a terrific landing pad for sweet spreads.

Bad Hawaiian rolls are too sweet, too coarse and or just plain bland. The worst are so over-baked that they are not only dry but also taste burnt.

Here are details on Hawaiian rolls that are worthy of a place on the Thanksgiving table, and the wonky, oddball rolls that are destined for the compost bin. Nutrition info refers to one roll, about 1 to 1.5 ounces.

Trader Joe’s Aloha Sweet Pull Apart Rolls

These large, puffy rolls are understated, but they deliver all of the notes of a true Hawaiian roll; they’re sweet, salty and rich, thanks to plenty of eggs. (28 grams) 90 calories, 1 gram fat, 110 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 2 grams protein. $3.49 for 12 ounces. (4 stars)

365 Whole Foods Market Sweet Hawaiian Rolls

A delicate fruit note, a dash of sugar and a velvety texture make these one of the best. Note that these are just now being rolled out for the holiday season. (38 grams) 110 calories, 1.5 g fat, 160 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 4 grams protein. $3.79 for 16 ounces. (3 1/2 stars)

Artesano Hawaiian Bakery Rolls

These large squares are fluffier than most, and infused with a fun — if artificial — butter note. (40 grams) 110 calories, 1.5 grams fat, 170 milligrams sodium, 3 grams sugar, 4 grams protein. $3.99 for 17 ounces on sale at Raley’s. (3 stars)

King’s Hawaiian Sweet Rolls

While these are velvety soft and have rich, egg-forward flavor, the sweet note is overkill. (28 grams) 90 calories, 2 grams fat, 75 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 3 grams protein. $4.49 for 12 ounces at FoodMaxx. (3 stars)

Sola Hawaiian Rolls

Found in the freezer section, these “lower carb” rolls are entirely edible, but the flavor is more akin to monkey bread than a Hawaiian roll, and they are notably dense. (28 grams) 60 calories, 2.5 grams fat, 150 milligrams sodium, 2 grams sugar, 2 grams protein. $6.38 for 12 ounces at Whole Foods. (2 stars)

Sunny Select Hawaiian Rolls

These handsome rolls get the flavors right at first, but too many preservatives leave a bad aftertaste. (38 grams) 100 calories, 2 grams fat, 170 milligrams sodium, 2 grams sugar, 4 grams protein. $3.99 for 16 ounces at Lucky. (1 star)

Great Value Hawaiian Enriched Rolls

While these huge, spongy rolls are OK, they are rather bland, and the tops literally taste burnt. (38 grams) 100 calories, 1.5 grams fat, 160 milligrams sodium, 5 grams sugar, 3 grams protein. $3.24 for 16 ounces at Walmart. (1 star)

Hero Hawaiian Rolls

Strange, bean-like flavors and the aftertaste of monk fruit make these small, “0 grams net carbs” rolls a huge disappointment. (31 grams) 60 calories, 4.5 grams fat, 200 milligrams sodium, no sugar, 4 grams protein. $14.99 for 13.1 ounces at Sprouts. (1/2 star)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-Off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.

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