When The Purple Pig opened in 2009, the crowds and accolades followed almost immediately. Its chef, Jimmy Bannos Jr. went on to receive the James Beard Award for Rising Star Chef for his playful take on Mediterranean-leaning small plates, prepared in a funky space on Michigan Avenue that once housed a FedEx.
In 2019, the Pig moved a stone’s throw away to the ground floor of an office building (at 444 N. Michigan Ave.). Last October, Bannos Jr. left the business he co-founded to focus on Kouklas Greek Eatery in Niles with his father, fellow chef Jimmy Bannos Sr.
Some 16 years after the Pig hit Chicago’s dining scene, Tony Mantuano, the award-winning founding chef of Spiaggia, is stepping into a leading role at the restaurant he’s been involved in from the beginning as one of the original partners. Spiaggia, the elegant Michelin-starred Italian restaurant, ruled the northern end of Michigan Avenue for 37 years until it closed in 2021.
Five years ago, Mantuano and his wife, Cathy, opened Yolan, a fine-dining Italian restaurant in Nashville. But, he said, the couple were ready for another challenge. “We could have signed up for another five-year contract, but we felt like our work was done,” Mantuano said.
The chef, who once hosted a presidential election victory dinner for Barack Obama, is now working with Purple Pig Executive Chef Efrain Medrano to fine tune the restaurant’s menu. Medrano is an alum of Spiaggia. (Monteverde’s Sarah Grueneberg and Joe Flamm of Il Carciofo, Rose Mary and BLVD Steakhouse are two other Spiaggia alums who credit Mantuano and his mentorship as contributing factors to their success.)
“Effie was a sous chef at Spiaggia, and he’s been with me off and on for more than 20 years,” says Mantuano of their close relationship. The two also worked together at Mantuano’s Bar Toma, located a few blocks south of Spiaggia. “I hadn’t been involved on a hands-on basis for a while at Purple Pig but coming back was like we never missed a beat.”
Medrano has already created new dishes for Mantuano to try. “It’s really hard to mess with something that’s as successful as it is but we need to push it a little bit, and Effie is game,” Mantuano said. However, he assures long-time fans that two dishes that have been on the menu from the beginning aren’t going anywhere: the crispy pig’s ear and the milk-braised pork shoulder.
Other coming tweaks at The Purple Pig include polishing of service elements, which is under Cathy’s watch, and a few design changes. For starters, Mantuano wants to remove the staid security desk that greets guests and replace it with a small bar area with seating.
But that’s not the only Pig-related project Mantuano is working on. He is in the process of creating a second Purple Pig in Oak Brook scheduled to open at the end of the year.
“It’s an opportunity to spread our wings a little bit and take it up a notch,” Mantuano said, citing the suburb’s friendly attitude as a factor for the location decision. “Chicago is a tough market right now, and it’s hard to open new businesses and restaurants. Oak Brook was so welcoming, and it feels like opening a restaurant in the ’80s or ’90s.”
Occupying a former furniture store, the 11,000-square-foot space — with seating for 230 indoors and 70 on its wrap-around patio — will feature a market area in the front, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the main dining area. A private dining room will have capacity for 90 guests.
Heading up baking will be Noelle Marchetti, the former pastry chef at Yolan. “I don’t know of anyone else within 10 miles that is doing a bakery at this level,” Mantuano said.
A wood-burning oven and grill, additions not at the original Purple Pig, will allow them to expand the menu. “The ability to cook with live fuel is so exciting,” said Mantuano, who did plenty of that at Spiaggia.
While there have been offers over the years to open Purple Pigs elsewhere, none appealed to Mantuano and his partners. “We don’t really like living on airplanes that much,” he said.
But that could change. “We’re creating this structure that’s going to allow us to grow in the future. We have our eye on some markets, but we haven’t made a decision because we want to make sure this one is as successful as possible.”
With the opening of a second Purple Pig, Mantuano will have more opportunities to do what he loves best: mentoring.
“It makes me very proud, and I want to keep that tradition going,” he said, citing Grueneberg, Flamm and New York chef Missy Robbins as Spiaggia alums who got “a little nudge and some training” from him. “It’s important to recognize talent in someone and not think you have all the right answers. The young blood that comes into the chat, I learn as much from them as they do from me.”