Kauai is the smallest, northernmost and geologically oldest of the Hawaiian islands and boasts one of the most stunning island settings in the world. Just 552 square miles in size, the Garden Island’s landscape gets lush and wild on the remote North Shore, only about an hour’s drive (30 miles) from the airport in Lihue.
Here you’ll find the beautiful crescent-shaped Hanalei Bay ringed by the famously rugged cliffs of the Napali coast, plus an unspoiled, beach-lined coastline that bursts with wild Pacific beauty. Sun, rainclouds, wind and ocean waves caress the bay and vibrant sunrises and sunsets paint an atmospheric canvas of pure tropical beauty — often one of the prettiest sights in the Hawaiian Islands.
A drive to Kauai’s North Shore is half the fun: Starting from Lihue’s low-key, small scale airport, you quickly exit town and head north through several colorful coastal towns of Kapa’a, Wailua, Kilauea, and the funky, Old Hawaii surf town of Hanalei. For beach and hiking provisions, be sure to stop at the Princeville Center, where a Foodland market carries everything you need for day trips (check out the fresh ahi poke bowls, banana and mango macadamia nut bread, guava juice sodas, and purple bread rolls made from taro root) and don’t miss Lappert’s Hawaiian ice cream shop and its enticing tropical flavored treats (love the Lava Tube sundae.)
Just north of the upscale Princeville resort community, the landscape becomes extraordinarily lush, with graceful waterfalls cascading down steep green mountains, and small rivers and streams flowing steadily to the sea though steep narrow ravines creasing the slopes of Mount Waialeale, one of the rainiest spots on Earth. At the Hanalei Valley Lookout, the gateway to the far north shore, you enjoy a panorama of the Hanalei River Valley and Kauai’s famed taro fields, laid out in a dreamlike patchwork quilt of green.
After crossing the historic Hanalei Bridge — the first of seven, one-lane bridges on the journey to the far North Shore — a two-lane highway meanders for the next several miles to the quaint town of Hanalei, where you explore this old-school Hawaiian village and take in its hip surf vibe and eclectic mix of structures like the Old Hanalei Schoolhouse and Ching Young Village — a set of historic buildings now home to shops and restaurants.
The town’s picturesque Wai’oli Hui’ia church is set beneath a backdrop of soaring, waterfall-laced mountains. Enjoy lunch at eateries such as local favorite Tropical Taco, or the Hanalei Poke food truck. Other excellent eating options in town include AMA ramen restaurant (great mountain views from the restaurant patio), the riverside Hanalei Dolphin and colorful Tahiti Nui, which was featured in a scene from the 2011 film “The Descendants” in which George Clooney’s character meets with his cousin, played by Beau Bridges. (This family-run restaurant also has a very fun, small-scale luau on Wednesday evenings.)
Cool off with a mango-passion fruit shave ice at JoJo’s before heading a few blocks to Pine Trees beach and Black Pot beach near the iconic Hanalei pier to sunbathe, beachcomb, or body board and surf in the gentle bay waves. Other must-see shops in Hanalei include Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art, Yellowfish Trading Company for new and vintage Hawaiiana and Hanalei Strings music shop for handcrafted ukuleles.
Continuing north, the coastal road narrows even more and a series of one-lane bridges force you to slow down and absorb the stunning scenery of this wave-swept shore. The views are magical: rugged emerald mountains adorned with waterfalls, and aquamarine seas framed by white sand beaches. Just a few miles before the end of the road and the start of the famously scenic and almost inaccessible Napali coast, you reach the tranquil community of Ha’ena and , where you can take a shuttle (reservations required) to visit Haena State Park’s wet and dry caves; Tunnels and Ke’e beaches for great snorkeling; and the Lumahuli Garden & Preserve, which teems with native species in an otherworldly landscape.
Where to stay
Hanalei’s Bay most luxurious lodging option is 1 Hanalei Bay, the posh new eco-friendly wellness resort in the resort community of Princeville. Draped on the cliffs overlooking serene Hanalei Bay, the resort reopened on February 2023 after a $300 million dollar re-imagination and features 252 nature-inspired rooms, including 51 suites, seven food and beverage venues, 18,000 square foot wellness center, 7,900 square foot fitness facility, three pools, an artist studio, children’s activity center, rooftop organic garden with native canoe crops and dedicated apiaries.
Guests have on-site access to services such as IV therapies, medical aesthetics, body analysis, metabolic testing and VO2 testing and analysis with tailored treatments aimed to stimulate cellular health, regeneration, and a transformative health reset. The resort also offers custom itineraries designed around wellness goals incorporating sustainable nutrition, fitness training, Kauai plant-based and touchless technology therapies, and functional medicine. Details: www.1hotels.com/hanalei-bay
For a smaller scale, “unplugged” hideaway escape on Kauai’s North Shore, check out the secluded Hanalei Colony Resort, set on a quiet, sandy shoreline a few miles north of Hanalei town. In addition to kitchen-equipped suites, a spa and a pool, the resort offers guests complimentary shuttles to the pristine and scenic Tunnels beach (great for snorkeling) and adjoining Haena State Park, as well as Hanalei and Princeville. Details: www.hcr.com
Adventures on Kauai’s North Shore
Kauai is a nirvana for adventure and active travelers. From hiking the lush, jungly Napali coast, kayaking the Wailua River on the east shore’s “Coconut Coast,” to beach and canyon hikes on the south and west shores, there’s an abundance of adventures to seek out.
Hiking
The North Shore is no exception and features the world-famous Kalalau Trail leading to Hanakapiai beach and waterfall (4 miles and 8 miles roundtrip, respectively), and eventually to the remote Kalalau Valley, a 22-mile roundtrip overnight backpacking experience (State park permits are required for backpackers.)
With awe-inspiring views of towering cliffs, lush valleys, waterfalls, and sea caves, the Kalalau Trail is considered one of the most scenic, if challenging, hikes in all the islands (advance hiking reservations required up to 30 days in advance for non-Hawaii residents.) Whether hikers do the full hike or just a portion, the trail is a highlight of any visit to Kauai.
The short first leg of the route is a somewhat rigorous but unforgettable hiking adventure that captures the essence of the North Shore. You start near Ke’e beach and ascend a the rocky and somewhat steep cliffside trail across lava rocks and across streams to Hanakapiai Beach, where you can picnic under shady pandanus trees or on the small, rocky strand. Don’t attempt to swim here as the ocean currents are extremely dangerous and there have been many drownings. General info: www.kalalautrail.com. Shuttle info: www.gohaena.com.
Kayaking
Take a relaxing kayak tour of the Hanalei river and bay to scenic Hideaways Beach with Kayak Kauai. Details: www.kayakkauai.com
Surfing
Learn to surf with the experts at Hanalei-based Hawaiian Surfing Adventures. Details: www.hawaiiansurfingadventures.com
Nature walk
Explore the hillside trails of the Limahuli Garden & Preserve, one of three National Tropical Botanical Gardens on Kauai and a preserve for many native plant species, some only found on Kauai’s North Shore. Details: www.ntbg.org/gardens/limahuli