Unmuddle ratatouille by keeping it light and fresh

When summer yields bushels of vegetables — we’re talking tomatoes, peppers, squash and eggplant — it’s time to lean in and look to recipes that embrace this abundance. An easy one-dish method involves sweeping up all the goods to make a ratatouille.

Ratatouille is a southern French staple that gladly combines the garden’s harvest and simmers it into a chunky, aromatic stew. Some ratatouille recipes have you saute and simmer the vegetables together in a tomato-sauced stew, resulting in a thick compote. This recipe, inspired by one from chef Alice Waters, keeps it light and fresh. Each vegetable is cooked individually as they are combined into the stew, allowing them to keep their integrity and shape, while the juice of fresh tomatoes lightly binds the dish. Spice is kept to a minimum, and a simple bouquet garni of fresh basil provides the only fragrance. The result is a bright ratatouille, neither muddled nor overly sauced, to complement any meal or enjoy as a light stand-alone dish.

Thyme sprigs are included in the bouquet garni, and a splash of fruity balsamic vinegar is added for a finishing kick of acidity and oomph. The dish is best eaten within a day to preserve its fresh flavors. Try to keep the vegetables as uniform in size as possible when slicing and dicing.

Ratatouille

Servings: 6

Ingredients

1 globe eggplant, about 1 1/2 pounds, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
Kosher salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 red bell peppers, seeded, diced
2 narrow zucchini or yellow squash, halved lengthwise, cut into 1/2-inch-thick moons
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1/4 teaspoon dried chile flakes
4 medium vine-ripened tomatoes, diced
4 sprigs fresh basil and 2 sprigs fresh thyme, tied together with kitchen string
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Fresh basil leaves, torn, for garnish

Directions

Place the eggplant in a colander. Generously season with salt and toss to coat. Place the colander in a bowl or in your sink and let stand for 30 minutes. Blot the eggplant dry with paper towels.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the eggplant and cook until soft and tinged golden, about 8 minutes. If the pot dries out too quickly, add more oil as needed. Transfer the eggplant to a bowl. (Alternatively, toss the eggplant with the oil and spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 400-degree oven until golden and soft, about 30 minutes.)

Add 2 tablespoons oil to the pot. Add the onion and cook over medium heat until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the peppers and continue to cook until they’re crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Add the squash and cook until bright and crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes more. Stir in the garlic and chile flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and the bouquet garni and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Stir in the cooked eggplant and continue to cook until the vegetables are soft, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the bouquet garni.

Stir in the balsamic vinegar and black pepper and season with salt to your taste. Serve warm or at room temperature garnished with fresh basil.

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