Wine Of The Week: Orin Swift Eight Years In The Desert 2023
Orin Swift’s 8 Years in the Desert, an ode to California Zinfandel. Credit: Orin Swift
You’re likely sleeping on the appeal of California Zinfandel. Which is understandable—the grape gained a bad reputation in the early aughts for being too oomphy and over-extracted. But Dave Phinny, the winemaker and creative director of Orin Swift, loves the varietal. Phinny also went through a phase with the grape. He took a break from 2008 and 2016, to focus on other wines. This release? Is a love letter to his newfound obsession with Zinfandel, or his eight years spent without it, in the desert. In Eight Years in the Desert, Zinfandel, sourced from prime vineyards like Barelli Creek and padded with Petite Sirah and Syrah, is plush with notes of ripe blackberry and raspberry. It’s decadent, overflowing with chocolate, plum, raspberry pie, and fresh-ground espresso beans. It’s rich and opulent—oomph, but with elegance.$53
Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, Vogue, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.
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