
The words Santa Cruz elicits beach, surf, and other coastal California connotations. But wind up, away from the beach and into the redwood forests to find some of the most interesting, exacting and exquisite wine in North America. Start with Thomas Fogarty. Founded in 1981, the winery is perched at the tippy top of the region, well above the fog line and with Silicon Valley unfolding at its feet. It’s a wild place to make wine—the vineyards sit atop mountains, and dip and curve out of redwood forests and steep drops.
It’s remote, on roads favored by motor bikers and other explorers, who come for the incredible sunsets over the mountains. That wildness is worth it, as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive in the fog-draped landscape. Tommy Fogarty has been here since 1981, making compelling, expressive takes on the grape. All seem to reflect the mountain—they taste of sagebrush, pine, bay laurel, chaparral and other local herbs. The wines breath with freshness only found in the highest peaks. I’m in love with all the wines Fogarty makes, but try the Pinot Noir’s Razorback Vineyard first. It’s intense and austere, with dark florals, notes of incense, juniper, and bay laurel, and a fresh fruitiness that ties together the herbaceousness. $85
Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, Vogue, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.