I attended the Grand Sumo Tournament in London – here’s what it was really like

London has swapped Big Ben for big bouts this week as centuries of Japanese tradition play out at the Royal Albert Hall.

Incredibly, only twice has a full Grand Sumo Tournament been held outside of Japan in the sport’s 1,500-year history.

A little bit of Japan was tucked into London’s heart in 1991 – and 34 years later – they’re back in the same venue for another unmissable showcase.

You’ve probably seen these giants strolling around our nation’s capital, recreating the Abbey Road Beatles walk, posing for pictures with the King’s Guard, zooming around in black cabs and even feeding squirrels in parks.

But what’s it really like to trade fish and chips for flips and grips?

Here’s what I experienced watching sumo wrestling up and close on Thursday…

From tea and crumpets to salt and sumo

Once the bouts started – you simply could not take your eyes off these titans. There were audible gasps at the sound of the first pair, Shishi Masaru and Ryūden Gōshi, knocking into each other to start their battle… It was honestly so loud it sounded like a car crash.

Taking place under a roof reminiscent of a Shinto shrine, Shishi nudged his foe out of the ring to thunderous applause from a crowd already hooked on this enthralling spectacle.

It was fun having no idea how long each fight would last. Some would be over in a matter of seconds, others went on for a number of minutes.

But fans were never left waiting long between bouts – because the next wresters waiting to step into the ring were sat nearby on fluffy cushions.

Sumo wrestler lands in the crowd!

One of my favourite moments came in the first wave of bouts when a wrester took a heavy hit and went flying into the crowd, pretty much landing in the lap of one shocked spectator.

There was another bout which had fans on their feet when one wrestler was on the verge of falling out the ring – before using his strength to carry his opponent across the whole circle and dump him out the other side.

The second wave of 10 bouts saw the quality go up and there were more tactics at play than before. At first, I was confused as to why the referee would stop and restart some of the bouts. But it became clear that some wresters would fake readiness to throw their opponent off.

It was a little frustrating at first because all people wanted to see was these man-mountains going at it. But once you knew what was happening, it just added to the tension and drama when they’d finally get started.

There was another notable moment when one bout had to be replayed entirety, because both wrestlers landed out the ring at the same time.

When that happens, there are four judges – dressed a bit like The Traitors in huge black cloaks – who step into the ring to make a decision on which wrestler won the bout or if they should fight again.

Matcha roll cakes so green they were glowing

After the first 10 bouts, spectators were given a 20-minute interval, and there were a number of Japanese snacks and drinks available. You could get a matcha roll cake – which were so green they were pretty much glowing – for £5 or a very fancy looking katsu chicken sando for £12.

Suntory Roku gin with tonic water and garnished with fresh ginger was available for £13 and it was the same price for a Japanese highball drink.

Walking around during the interval, I saw a giant Hello Kitty mascot and checked out the merchandise – with t-shirts for £40 – while there were also tote bags, programmes and headsets to listen to the live commentary.

An unmissable cultural explosion

Before any of the bouts got underway, I was taken to a media room was was interestingly located directly under the ring. It sounded like an earthquake hearing them set things up above my head – so I can only imagine how loud it must have been when the action actually started.

I then went up to my seat in the Rausing Circle for the opening presentation – which was an unmissable cultural explosion and a true celebration of one of the world’s oldest sports.

In the words of Hiro Morita, a sumo commentator and presenter who was addressing the crowd in London: ‘This is not just a sport – it’s a ritual.’

He went on to explain the ins and outs of sumo wrestling – like how bouts were originally held in Shinto shrines and that the wresters throw salt in the ring to purify it and get rid of evil spirits.

‘There are no weight classes,’ Morita explains, leading to true David vs Goliath clashes in some instances.

It was then time for the wrestlers to come out for their respective ceremonies – which are deep rooted in Shinto tradition, Japanese culture and the sport’s long history.

Specators were encouraged to get involved in the third and fourth ceremonies – shouting ‘Yoisho!’ when wrestlers performed the shiko – raising one leg high and stomping down to drive away the evil spirits.

Final verdict

Attending a sumo wrestling event in London was a truly unforgettable experience.

The powerful clashes, the ritual salt-throwing, and the dignified ring-entering ceremonies transport you straight to the heart of Japan’s national sport.

Surrounded by the diverse energy of London, it feels like a true celebration – a rare moment where centuries of culture meet the modern world.

It leaves you with a deep appreciation for the discipline, respect and spirit that define sumo. On a scale of one to five stars, it very much gets all five.