Pardon me a deep dive into the murky waters of cliché, but Betsy (the restaurant), which sits some distance up Lake Avenue in Altadena amid the ruins of January’s Eaton fire, is a phoenix of a destination, rising from the devastation that once surround it, to feed locals a very personal cuisine — with hope on every plate, and in every bite.
This minimalist storefront isn’t so much a restaurant, as it is a testament to our ability to carry on, despite the odds. Dining at Betsy feels like a communion of survivors. It’s a meal that makes you believe in the enduring strength of the human spirit.
Chef Tyler Wells has turned what was Bernee into Betsy, with a blazing wood burning hearth behind the counter — which gives you a front-row seat to the preparation of every dish.
The flames that devastated Altadena have been tamed, turned from a destructive power, to a culinary force. It’s a bit like being witness to human history, with flames brought under control, and made to do brilliant things to meat and fish. And focaccia, which is as good as bread can be. It’s not so much a dish, as it is a symbol. A statement that Altadena is back in every bite.
Traveling up Lake to Betsy, near the intersection of Lake and Mariposa Street, is a sobering experience. The ruins are mostly cleared, leaving a moonscape of vacant lots waiting for the return of life. Though Mariposa just west of Lake was not spared the flames, the building that houses Betsy still stands, rebuilt and cleared of smoke.
Betsy (3.5 stars; 875 E. Mariposa St., Altadena; 626-345-5492; www.betsyaltadena.com) is an oddment of a storefront, with a handful of tables on the street in front, more tables along the wall within, a small dining area just where you enter the room — and, of course, the counter.
There’s a sense of communion among the diners. Seated at the counter, I exchanged recent dining experiences with folks sitting next to me, and compared notes on the menu. Which, like the room, is notable for its simplicity. This is a small restaurant with a small menu. Small — but carefully curated.
It’s hard not to find something you’d want. And to consider something else that you promise yourself you’ll order next time.
This is food that’s both traditional and modern at the same time. The dishes aren’t especially peppered with obscure culinary nomenclature that has you heading for Google to figure out what the heck exactly you’re ordering. Though it’s not 100 percent clear either.
The “wanderer” in the Wanderer New York strip steak refers to meat from the free-range, barley fed Wanderer brand of Melbourne, Australia.
The Payne walnuts in the mixed lettuce and shallot vinaigrette salad refer to the walnuts developed by George Payne in San Juan Bautista in the late 1800s. Raw and organic. The Mountain Magic tomatoes served blistered with the locally caught fish of the day are notably sweet, larger than a cherry, but not much.
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This is a kitchen that doesn’t just toss stuff on a plate and tell you to eat up. There’s care in the creation. And commitment, too. Which you’ve got to have to stand in front of a blazing hearth for several hours every night, charring along with the onions in the vinaigrette that flavor the grilled summer beans.
This must be a great place to sit on a chill day — should we ever have another one. Warm and cozy. And very well fed.
And also, at one with the community. This is as much a statement as it is a restaurant. But it doesn’t hurt that it’s a very tasty statement.
There’s a Caesar salad that’s just perfect, made with crunchy Little Gem lettuce, a very flavorful parmesan, white anchovies and crumbs from the breads baked on the hearth. The tomato and burrata plate, a dish we all know well, is made with tomatoes at their peak, and burrata of exceptional sweetness and cream. Served with cast iron focaccia.
The focaccia also comes with a “cheese we are liking.” Which speaks of a chef who is always restless, and seeking out what he, and we, will love.
Pork comes with a corn and pepper succotash and heirloom corn tortillas — essentially corn two ways. Broccolini is lifted from the broccoli ’hood with “Paul’s chili crunch.” No boredom there. Not in the tallow roasted potatoes, either; so crunchy, so moist. For dessert, there’s a cobbler, a cheesecake, a pot de crème.
The wine list is even more notable, the creation of the remarkable David Rosoff, who knows vino like Tyler Wells knows meat and veggies. The list is by the glass on one side, and by the bottle on the other. It leans toward France, Spain and Italy — a lot toward Italy. This is a wine list for those weary of the same old same old.
The dishes sound old school, and taste fresh. The wines sound new school, and taste that way, too.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.
Betsy
- Rating: 3.5 stars
- Where: 875 E Mariposa St., Altadena
- Information: 626-345-5492; www.betsyaltadena.com
- When: Dinner, every day
- Details: Wine; reservations very essential
- The food: Rising from the ashes of January’s Eaton fire, at the top of Lake Avenue and surrounded by ruins, this small storefront serves brilliant food prepared in glowing ovens behind the comfortable counter. It’s a statement on a plate that Altadena will rise again.
- How much: About $75 per person
- Suggested dishes: 6 Appetizers ($14-$24), 5 Entrees ($29-$140), 4 Side Dishes ($14-$16), 3 Desserts ($12-$14)
- Credit cards: MC, V
- What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)