By Emily Weinstein, The New York Times
Eric Kim wrote a luminous essay about Japanese breakfast, with its constellation of small savory dishes (rice, miso soup, fish, pickles), and the daily practice of preparing it. You could make it bespoke every day, but the more pragmatic approach is to cook some of the elements ahead and fill out the meal with leftovers and other scraps from the fridge — “cooking for future you, not present you,” as Eric says, an idea I love and one you can embrace for any meal.
His new breakfast recipe for miso roasted salmon can be borrowed for dinner — it’s as satisfying at 7 p.m. as it is at 7 a.m., beautifully and saltily simple. The salmon recipe is below, along with four other dinners for the week ahead.
1. Miso Roasted Salmon
With this fish, less is more: The salty, umami balm of a miso marinade is lightened with lemon zest, which lends floral bittersweetness, and with lemon juice, which brings electric tang and tenderness. Salmon fillets cut into smaller, thinner portions — as they are for a Japanese breakfast spread — end up more evenly cooked and allow the marinade to flavor the fish more intensely (see Tip). If you can find it, yuzu would be fabulous here in place of the lemon. Serve with white rice, miso soup and goma-ae.
By Eric Kim
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 15 minutes plus overnight marinating
Ingredients
3 tablespoons miso, preferably shiro (white) or awase (mixed; see Tips)
2 tablespoons mirin
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon avocado or canola oil, plus more for greasing pan
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
4 (4-ounce) salmon fillets, preferably with skin (see Tips)
Preparation
1. In a shallow dish, stir together the miso, mirin, soy sauce, oil, lemon zest and lemon juice. Add the salmon, turn to coat, cover and refrigerate overnight or for up to 48 hours.
2. When ready to cook, heat the oven to 450 degrees and line a sheet pan with foil. Grease the foil with oil, then lay the salmon down, on the cut sides if possible.
3. Bake until charred at the edges, 7 minutes for medium-rare or 9 minutes for medium. Serve immediately.
Tips
To cut salmon fillets into thinner long portions as you would find in a Japanese breakfast spread, start with a skin-on fillet that’s 3/4- to 1-inch thick, scrape off any scales, then cut the fillet into 1-inch-wide strips.
Shiro (white) miso is made with a higher proportion of rice, which lends a milder, sweeter flavor. Awase (mixed) miso typically combines shiro and aka (red) miso for a balanced salty sweetness. You can substitute other varieties of miso if you can’t find either white or mixed.
2. Crispy Cheddar Chicken Tacos
Crispy cheddar chicken tacos. Possibly the highest use of rotisserie or leftover chicken: these tacos from Rick Martinez. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Julia Gartland, The New York Times)
These quick tacos use leftover or store-bought rotisserie chicken, and have a satisfying crispy Cheddar frico called a costra (crust) that is common both in taquerias in the northern half of Mexico and in the southwestern United States. In some taquerias, you can order a taco using only the costra as the shell without a tortilla. In this recipe, the tortilla and costra are layered together to wrap a simple but delicious shredded chicken and chipotle filling.
By Rick A. Martínez
Yield: 8 tacos
Total time: 35 minutes
Ingredients
1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced (lengthwise, from root to stem end)
1 cup hot water (tap water is fine)
Salt
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 cups shredded, cooked chicken, warmed
2 chipotles peppers in adobo sauce, chopped, plus 2 tablespoons adobo sauce
6 ounces medium Cheddar, Monterey jack or queso chihuahua, grated
8 (6-inch) corn tortillas
Sliced avocado, salsa and lime wedges, for serving
Preparation
1. Set an oven rack in the middle position; heat the oven to 375 degrees.
2. In a medium bowl, stir the onion, hot water and 1 teaspoon salt until the salt has dissolved. Let sit for 5 minutes. This will soften the onion and lessen any bitter or harsh flavors. Rinse the onion under cold water and drain. In the same bowl, toss the onion with the oregano, lime juice, orange juice and 1/2 teaspoon salt; reserve.
3. In a separate bowl, quickly toss together the chicken, peppers and adobo sauce, making sure the chicken is completely coated. Season with salt. Cover and keep warm.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat (do not use foil or the cheese might stick). Arrange cheese in 8 equal mounds on the prepared baking sheet. Spread each mound evenly to about 3 inches wide, and space at least 1 inch apart. Bake until the cheese is bubbly and deep golden brown in spots and around the edges, about 14 minutes. Remove from the oven and place 1 tortilla over each cheese crust and return to the oven to heat the tortillas, about 2 minutes.
5. Use tongs to carefully remove each tortilla with its costra, flipping each one onto a plate so that the cheese is facing up. Top with chicken, onions, avocado, salsa and a squeeze of lime.
3. Creamy, Spicy Tomato Beans and Greens
Creamy, spicy tomato beans and greens. Take two cans of white beans, some tomato paste, sun-dried tomatoes and cream, and youÕve got this brilliant quick recipe from Alexa Weibel. Food styled by Samantha Seneviratne. (Kelly Marshall/The New York Times)
This weeknight wonder is for those who delight in turning a modest can of beans into a spectacular dinner. Inspired by the flavors of red pesto, this recipe calls for simmering cannellini beans with staple ingredients like onion, garlic, crushed red pepper, tomato paste and heavy cream, as well as sun-dried tomatoes and salty Pecorino, until the results taste complex and rich. Top the beans with a lemony arugula salad that is peppered with fried breadcrumbs for a dish that is crunchy, chewy, crispy and creamy in every bite.
By Alexa Weibel
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 40 minutes
Ingredients
6 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup panko breadcrumbs
Salt and black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/3 cup tomato paste
2 (14-ounce) cans cannellini beans or other creamy white beans, rinsed
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup chopped jarred sun-dried tomatoes in oil
2/3 cup finely grated Pecorino or Parmesan
4 (packed) cups/3 ounces baby arugula
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest plus 4 teaspoons juice (from 1 lemon)
Toasted bread (optional), for serving
Preparation
1. In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium. Stir in the panko, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently and shaking the pan, until toasted and golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer seasoned panko to a paper-towel lined plate, then wipe out the skillet.
2. Add another 2 tablespoons olive oil to the skillet and heat over medium. Add the onion, garlic and crushed red pepper, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 4 minutes.
3. Add the tomato paste and stir until darkened and mixture is combined, about 3 minutes.
4. Stir in beans, heavy cream, sun-dried tomatoes and 1/3 cup water, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until flavors meld, about 5 minutes. Stir in half the cheese, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. In a medium bowl, toss the arugula with the seasoned panko, lemon zest and juice, plus the remaining 1/3 cup cheese and 2 tablespoons olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Pile the greens at the center of the bean mixture. Serve with toasted bread, if desired.
4. Spaghetti al Limone With Shrimp
Spaghetti al limone with shrimp. The recipe is by Lidey Heuck, and it’s one of the simplest ways to have a fancy-feeling dinner. (Julia Gartland, The New York Times)
There are many interpretations of the classic Italian pasta dish, spaghetti al limone, or spaghetti with lemon. Some call for an Alfredo-like sauce made with heavy cream, butter and Parmesan, while others rely on just olive oil, lemon juice, Parmesan and starchy pasta water. This particular recipe, which adds sautéed shrimp, white wine and fresh tarragon to the mix, leans toward the simpler preparation. Without the addition of heavy cream, the sauce has a brighter lemon flavor, which works beautifully with the delicate brininess of the shrimp. Tarragon adds a fragrant note and a bit of complexity to an otherwise fairly straightforward dish. Finally, if there were a time to spring for freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, this would be it. In an uncomplicated recipe like this one, the quality of each ingredient is paramount.
By Lidey Heuck
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 pound spaghetti
1 pound large shrimp (18 to 20 count), peeled and deveined, tails on or off
1/4 cup olive oil
2 lemons, zested (about 1 1/2 packed tablespoons), plus 3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, plus more for serving
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, diced
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Preparation
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to package directions until al dente. Scoop out 1 cup of the cooking liquid, then drain the pasta and set aside.
2. While the pasta cooks, pat the shrimp dry and season them with salt and black pepper. Combine the olive oil, lemon zest (setting a few pinches aside for serving) and tarragon in a large skillet set over medium heat. When the oil begins to sizzle, cook for 1 more minute, until the zest and tarragon are fragrant but not browned.
3. Add the shrimp to the skillet and spread into an even layer. Cook for about 90 seconds on each side, or until just cooked through. Transfer the shrimp to a plate and set aside.
4. Add the wine, 1 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of black pepper to the skillet, and bring to a simmer, scraping any browned bits from the pan. Cook until the wine has reduced by about half, then set aside, off the heat, until the pasta has finished cooking.
5. Add the cooked pasta and reserved pasta water to the skillet. Cook over medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes, tossing often, until the liquid that has collected at the bottom of the skillet has reduced slightly. (The sauce should still be fairly loose at this point.)
6. Off the heat, add the butter and 1/2 cup Parmesan, sprinkling the cheese evenly over the pasta. Toss until the butter and cheese are melted and the sauce is smooth. Add the lemon juice and remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan and toss until the sauce is thick and smooth.
7. Add the shrimp, toss, then season with more salt and black pepper to taste. Divide among shallow bowls and garnish with chopped fresh tarragon, lemon zest and black pepper.
5. Pan-Seared Asparagus With Cashews
Pan-seared asparagus with cashews. This new dish from Melissa Clark aims for amped-up crunch with chopped nuts, coconut flakes and sunflower seeds added to crisp-tender pieces of asparagus. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (Christopher Testani/The New York Times)
In this speedy, springy dish, a crunchy mix of nuts, seeds and coconut flakes gives seared asparagus plenty of texture, while a squeeze of lime and handful of fresh herbs add brightness right at the end. This makes a hearty side dish for simple roasted fish or chicken, or it can be a light meal when served over rice or alongside a fried or soft-cooked egg, the yolk turning into a glossy sauce that coats the stalks.
By Melissa Clark
Yield: 3 to 4 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
1/3 cup roasted unsalted cashews, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup unsweetened coconut flakes
2 tablespoons raw sunflower seeds or pepitas
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon coconut oil (or use a neutral-flavored oil)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 pound asparagus (about 1 bunch), trimmed and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce, to taste
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, more to taste
Chopped cilantro and sesame seeds, for serving
Preparation
1. In a large dry skillet over medium-low heat, toast the cashews, coconut flakes and sunflower seeds, stirring, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour mixture into a bowl to cool.
2. Return pan to the heat, and add sesame and coconut oils and garlic. Cook for 30 seconds, then stir in asparagus. Season lightly with salt and black pepper. Cook asparagus until crisp-tender, 3 to 7 minutes depending on how thick they are.
3. Stir in the soy sauce, lime juice, nut mixture and red-pepper flakes. Taste and season with more salt and red pepper, if you like. Transfer asparagus mixture to a serving dish. Top with sesame seeds and cilantro, and serve with lime wedges for squeezing.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.