What do you think of when you read the words “nutmeg,” “howler” or “Cruyff turn”?
If you answered: an apple pie spice, a shrieking Harry Potter letter and … I don’t have a clue, then this story probably isn’t for you.
The world’s greatest sporting event is under way: the FIFA World Cup. You don’t have tickets, but you like the idea of watching the matches with people who when you mention van Dijk, think Virgil, one of soccer’s all-time greatest center-backs, not the 17th century Flemish painter.
With that in mind, we’ve come up with a (by no means exhaustive) list of places in the city to cheer (and cry) along with the dreamers, the hopelessly optimistic, the true believers. Remember, though, that the World Cup happens once every four years and is expected to be watched by billions of people. So call ahead before you go to assure that you’ll have a seat at the table.
Algeria
Zebda
4344 N. Elston Ave; 773-545-7000, zebdachicago.com
The vibe: The kind of place you might find tucked away on a side street in Algiers, minus the clouds of tobacco smoke. Sepia-toned photographs of that ancient North African city line the walls. The patrons, very friendly, greet each other with the traditional Arabic “As-salamu alaykum” (peace be with you). The room is tight and has only a single flat-screen TV, and the daily specials are scrawled on a huge chalkboard. When I was there, the patrons were all men, mostly middle-aged, but the staff here assured me that women are welcome too. The commentary, by the way, is in Arabic. With one of Africa’s all-time great (though aging) players in Riyad Mahrez, expect the “Desert Warriors” to at least make it out of the group stage — so arrive early on game days.
What to eat: Chicken tagine, a North African stew, gently spiced
What to drink: Hamoud La Gazouz Blanche, a popular caffeinated lemon-lime soda
Argentina
Barra Ñ
2977 N. Elston Ave; 773-654-3367, barranchi.com
The vibe: Once again, Argentina is among the favorites to win the World Cup. Why? Because they did it four years ago, and they have Lionel Messi. He may be 38, but he can still bedazzle and bamboozle the world’s best defenders. This pie-shaped bar has a light, airy feel, without (when I was there) a single shrine to one of the world’s greatest-ever players, although I’m told they’ve since put up a Messi poster or two. But don’t worry, when “La Albiceleste” take to the pitch, you’ll surely be swept up in the fervor for “La Pulga,” (the flea, in English, because of Messi’s ability to escape defenders). No reservations here. It’s first come, first served here. So arrive early.
What to eat: Empanadas with beef, chicken, or ham and cheese.
What to drink: Quilmes, a popular Argentine beer
Croatia
Croatian Cultural Center of Chicago
2845 W. Devon Ave.; 773-338-3839, croatianculturalcenterchicago.com
The vibe: Not the swankiest of venues, this feels like a place where a couple hundred folks would gather for a Friday night church fish fry. Expect to see Croatia’s red-and-white checkerboard colors everywhere. And, expect to see some top-notch footie. Croatia reached the final in 2018 (ultimately losing to France 2-4). Luka Modrić, one of my all-time favorite players, is in the squad. He’s 40 years old, making him one of the oldest players in the tournament. Incredibly, this will be Modrić’s fifth World Cup. Good midfielders know how to feint, find the tiniest gaps between opposing players and inject a little magic, before fading a bit as the game progresses. Modrić, thinking four or five maneuvers ahead of everyone else, was in his prime the dynamo that kept on going. I’ll be curious to see how much gas he has left in the tank.
What to eat: Ćevape, a traditional sausage made with lamb and beef
What to drink: Ožujsko, a popular Croatian larger
Germany
Laschet’s Inn
2119 W. Irving Park Road.; 773-478-7915, laschetsinn.com
The vibe: If old-world German charm is your thing, you’ll love this place. Beer steins hang from the wood beams, yellowing maps of the mother country decorate the walls. And, yes, there is beer — lots and lots of it. Really thirsty? How about a liter of your favorite brew. The bartender told me some patrons have been known to knock back three or four liters in a single sitting. The place brought back memories of my childhood. I grew up in London, not Frankfurt, but as a kid I had two German shepherds, Timber and Woody. I also (don’t ask me why) occasionally wore lederhosen, until I peed in them when I couldn’t undo the buckles quickly enough. You’ll find a less boisterous crowd here than, say, at a bar dedicated solely to soccer. Polite applause accompanied Germany striker Kai Havertz’s first-half stoppage time penalty against Curacao, a team the Germans went on to trash 7-1.
What to eat: Rouladen (tenderized beef rolled up with mustard, bacon, pickled onion and served in a dark gravy); bowl of goulash with a side of spaetzle.
What to drink: Flensburger Pilsener, a full-bodied north German beer
Mexico
Pizza Cantina
1713 W. 18th St.; 312-929-3030
The vibe: I know what you’re thinking: pizza at a Mexican joint?!? This reporter did not have time to try the food, but this Pilsen recommendation came from a die-hard Mexico fan. It is cavernous, doesn’t take reservations and fans were packed in like sardines for Mexico’s first game against South Africa, a 2-0 win for “El Tri.” If you’re Mexican, you already know this: The nation is soccer mad and yet they have never won a World Cup. Tragic. They’ve twice reached the quarterfinals, in 1970 and 1986, both times on home soil. They’re doing so again in this tournament. Expect them to at least make it out of the group stage. And after that? Who knows.
What to eat: Asada pizza
What to drink: A Mexican Bloody Mary
Netherlands
Wild Goose Bar & Grill
4600 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-281-7112, wildgoosebar.com
The vibe: This place is smothered in Netherlands orange, and the owners are Dutch. But don’t expect to see servers in wooden clogs and pointy white bonnets (because that would be cruel). No cute Dutch windmill oil paintings either. It is a boisterous North Side sports bar that plans to broadcast all of the Netherlands matches, as well as every other World Cup game. The Netherlands are great to watch, but their supporters perhaps provide even more entertainment — on match day, swarms of dancing, chanting fans dressed from head to toe in orange flood the streets leading to the stadium where their team is set to play. The Netherlands also produced one of the greatest players of all time, Johan Cruyff, for whom one of the trickiest moves in soccer is named, the “Cruyff turn.” Reservations aren’t required but recommended for big groups. Email parties@wildgoosebar.com.
What to eat: Patatje Oorlog, a french fry dish with mayonnaise, ketchup and onions
What to drink: Heineken on tap
All nations
A.J. Hudson’s Public House
3801 N. Ashland Ave.; 773-348-2767; ajhudsonspublichouse.com
The vibe: A.J. Hudson’s, formerly Ginger’s Ale House, is a favorite of many soccer fans. Lots of dark, glossy wood, with walls smothered in soccer memorabilia. The trash-talking comes with English, Scottish, African, German and, of course, American accents. I have a soft spot for this place. It’s like my Cheers. Not saying everyone knows my name, but they always appear glad to see me. I’ve brought my grade-school-age kids here on several occasions. And if you want a little less noise, there’s seating and TVs outside. Classic dark Chicago bar, with so many TVs that if you flick your head an inch, you’re looking at a different screen. If you’re a Brazil, Colombia or Ecuador fan (or root for a host of other countries), you’ll find kindred spirits here.
What to eat: Shepherd’s pie
What to drink: Mahou, a Spanish Pilsner
The Globe Pub
1934 W. Irving Park Rd.; 773-871-3757, theglobepub.com
The vibe: If you’re new to Chicago and desperate for some footy, The Globe is going to be on any list of recommendations. Why? It’s a proper soccer bar. If kickoff is at 6:30 a.m. Chicago time for an English Premier League match, expect the lights to be on, the TVs blaring and the bartenders ready to pour you a Smithwick’s, a Guinness — or a cup of coffee, if you like. Tottenham Hotspur fans, beware. The Globe is an Arsenal bar. I have not-so-fond memories of slinking out along The Globe’s tunnel of shame after Tottenham, my team, lost yet again to Arsenal, our hated North London rivals. Pop in today and you’ll find a Premier League table listing all 20 teams with only one, Tottenham, inserted upside down. But the staff is friendly, the food good. And if you’re an England, Germany, Brazil or Scotland supporter, you can watch your team (and many others) here.
What to eat: Fish and chips, Globe spice bag (seasoned french fries, sauteed onions, peppers and crispy chicken bites)
What to drink: Guinness