Most consumers know Jose Cuervo to be one of the largest producers of tequila in the world, but starting next month, consumers have a chance to get to know another side of the Cuervo brand — the small-batch, experimental, boundary-pushing side — with the next release of Reserva de la Familia.
Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Private Cask Collection Edition No. 2 “Mole Cask” is the latest and strangest member of the Reserva collection, and also one of the most interesting tequila releases in recent memory. It’s many things: an aged tequila, an experimental barrel finish, and in some ways a naturally pepper- and chocolate-infused tequila.
How all of the pieces of this puzzle fit together is a bit complex. Maestro Tequilero Alejandro Coronado started with the standard Reserva de la Familia recipe: a traditionally made tequila aged in American and French oak for a minimum of three years. But after those three years were up, Coronado finished this year’s selected liquid for an additional three to four months in casks that had been seasoned with mole, a traditional Mexican delicacy.
Mole is a rich, complex sauce, sometimes instead used as a marinade, and that’s about as specific as one can get in defining it, because no two recipes are exactly the same. Typically, mole contains a number of complex spices, dried peppers, and sometimes seeds, nuts, fruits, and unsweetened chocolate. While it’s descended from Aztec culture, the modern sauce is often broken down into different styles, which are often regional and familial.
It is, in short, a lot of things, but one thing it has never been until now is a finish for a tequila. That’s a bit surprising, and it might also be surprising to learn that Cuervo was the first brand to figure it out. After all, Cuervo is not always the brand associated with pioneering agave spirits these days.
But that’s a quirky “lost history” irony in many ways; Cuervo is 11 generations into family-owned operation, and their La Rojeña Distillery is the oldest operating one of its kind. They were also one of the first brands to create an extra-añejo tequila. It’s somewhat understandable, though, because most young drinkers are first introduced to products like Cuervo Gold, which is a bit like being introduced to Buffalo Trace via Fireball.
The Reserva de la Familia collection, then, is more like Buffalo Trace’s Antique Collection or Experimental Collection — an annual limited release of tequilas both rare and, at times, experimental in nature — aged for long periods of time in especially selected barrels, made in small batches, and often featuring innovations.
As for Reserva de la Familia Mole Cask, it’s unsurprisingly rich, but also incredibly well balanced. The tequila from these seasoned barrels is packed with aromas and flavors — apple peels, minerality, dark fruits, dark chocolate, and earthy spices. It’s bitter chocolate with dried peppers. It’s baked fruit and peanut butter. It’s 80 proof, but with a depth of flavor and texture that builds in additional, non-alcoholic heartiness to every sip.
Technically, this is the most elaborate and delicious pepper-infused tequila ever made. Same with chocolate-infused and spiced liquors, too. It was actually disappointing to learn that cuervo was recommending it as the primary ingredient in a Tequila Old Fashioned cocktail, until I reluctantly made one (go with citrus or chocolate bitters, skip the smoke and the fruit). I’d recommend you sip it neat, though, with food pairings. It does lovely things with desserts and meats, but really shines next to cheeses and charcuterie generally.
For $120, it’s an absolute must-buy bottle if anything I’ve said about it intrigues you. It’s available now for presale at reservadelafamilia.com/molecask. While I hope this experiment becomes part of the permanent portfolio, Cuervo might play out a few other unreleased experiments before they consider making this one a staple. It’s worth stashing away a few bottles — if you can find more than one.
G. Clay Whittaker is a Maxim contributor covering lifestyle, whiskey, cannabis and travel. His work has also appeared in Bon Appetit, Men’s Journal, Cigar Aficionado, Playboy and Esquire. Subscribe to his newsletter Drinks & Stuff for whiskey reviews and trends, perspectives on drinks, and stuff.